This post is part two of a two-part posting. It contains 116 photos, including detailed narratives. It covers June 2, 2014, my final day in Machu Picchu – including my hike up Wayna Picchu Mountain. The final photos in this posting cover my return train ride to Ollantaytambo, later that same evening.
As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.
CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION
Hiking Wayna Picchu
In early May, just before traveling to Pisac, I purchased a ticket to enter Machu Picchu on June 2, 2014. And something special about that ticket was that I paid extra for the privilege of being one of the first 200 people with permission to climb the famous Wayna Picchu Mountain beginning at 7:00 a.m. on that same morning.
Only 400 people can climb that mountain each day, with the first 200 starting at 7:00 a.m. and the second 200 beginning at 10:00 a.m..
At the time that I purchased my ticket, the tickets were already sold out for nearly four weeks in advance. During the high season (beginning in June) the tickets can be sold out months in advance.
After leaving the ticket office, I decided to go back to purchase a second ticket to enter the park on the day before. I decided that I wanted to have strength to explore Machu Piccho, and that after climibing Wayna Picchu, I may not be able to do much of anything else. So I also purchased a ticket to spend June 1, 2014 in the ruins as well. Then I went to the office of “Peru Rail” to purchase my train tickets. That is how this all came about.
These first photos cover my day of climbing Wayna Picchu.
Just as I did yesterday, I get up really early, and go over to the buses at just after 5:00 a.m., finally getting on one of those buses at about 5:40 a.m..
This is a self-portrait of me on the bus.
At just after 6:00 a.m. I pass through the entrance gates to Machu Picchu. Soon, I empty all unnecessary items out of my daypack, and I leave them in a plastic bag at a baggage storage area just inside the park.
Within minutes, I head, without delay, toward the entrance gates for the Wayna Picchu hike. I want to get an early start.
This photo was taken at 6:16 a.m. as I hurried toward Wayna Picchu.
Another photo of the ruins, taken as I hurry to the trail entrance.
One of the huts near the trail entrance. To my delight, when I arrive at the gate, I discover that i am the first person in line. I camp out in that spot, not moving for the next half hour. I want to be the first person to start the hike.
As I sit by the locked gate that blocks the trail entrance, I take several photos. This one is fun, showing the dew drops on a few plants as the sunrise peeks over the mountain tops.
Another similar photo. The sun (which is up and to the right) catches these dew drops and gives them perfect lighting.
This is the sign right next to the trail entrance. I study it several times. It takes me a while to figure out how to read it. Essentially, in addition to documenting altitudes etc…, it points out that there are actually two trails here. One goes directly to the top, after which people return down the same original trail back to the starting point. This option takes an average of two hours for a round trip.
The second option goes to the top, just like the first. But once there, the other trail leads down the back side of Wayna Picchu, dropping nearly 1300 feet to come caverns, and to the Temple of the Moon. Then, to get back to Machu Picchu, the trail climbs back up four or five hundred feet before joining the original trail. The sign indicates that this longer hike has an average completion time of four hours for the round trip.
As I stare at this sign, I do not believe that it would be possible for me to do the second hike. I expect that I may struggle greatly, just to get to the top. The “one hour” estimated climbing time might just take me two or three hours. I do not fully trust my physical conditioning, especially at this altitude.
This is the locked gate that leads to the trail. I am sitting on a rock, right by the gate.
A photo of Wayna Picchu, as seen between two of the wooden poles in the gate.
A close-up of the gate. I am eager to start. The gate is supposed to open at 7:00 a.m., but no one comes to open it until around 7:05 a.m..
Some of the people waiting to make the climb. By the time the gates open, there are at least four times as many people waiting. Those in the first group can start climbing as late as 8:00 a.m., so not everyone is here waiting.
This photo was taken twenty minutes after the previous one, shortly before the gates open.
My first photo of the hike, taken at 7:09 a.m.. I really was the first person through the gate, and “number one” on the sign-in list for the day. I get about a five-minute head start before anyone follows me. I fully expect that, before I reach the top, that a huge number of people will have passed me.
By the way, this photo is looking back at Machu Picchu Mountain.
And this photo is doing the same. In this one, you can see part of the ruins just above the shady area.
Looking down in the canyon where I hiked two days ago. In this photo, you can actually see the trail that follows the train tracks, on the right side of the river.
Looking at Wayna Picchu mountain, from the trail. Luckily, we do not climb on that steep cliff side. The trail veers to the left, and switches back and forth along a slightly more gentle slope – but it is still VERY steep.
The woman seen in the bottom right, passed me after about ten minutes. She had been number two in line. In late June, I actually see her in Pisac. She recognized me and we talk for a few minutes.
Looking up a steep section of the trail. Nearly the entire one-hour hike is steep stair steps like these. Many sections are so steep that steel cables are provided to give balance and support in the climb.
The photos do not really show the true nature of the trail. It is hard to see the slope without actually standing there in person. This section of trail is not quite as steep as most of the trail.
At 7:25 a.m., I pause briefly to look down back toward the Machu Picchu ruins. It is a gorgeous view, and i am only 16 minutes into the climb.
Taken from the same place, with a stronger zoom, showing the ruins below.
And another similar photo, but taken at 7:45 a.m., twenty minutes later, from much higher up.
This one was also taken at 7:45, but without the strong zoom, giving more perspective to just how high up I am now.
And a third one at the same spot, with a strong zoom.
I take this one at 7:49 a.m., giving a slightly different perspective for a little higher up.
Also taken at 7:49 a.m., in this zoomed one, you can see some of the switchbacks on the road that leads up to Machu Picchu.
This was taken at 7:52 a.m., and shows much more of the road leading up to the ruins.
To my delight, at 7:54 a.m., I take this photo. I am standing just below the top of Wayna Picchu. I literally completed the climb in only forty-five minutes. That is the ruins far below, and in the foreground, several of my fellow climbers are enjoying the view from a flat view area. I did not really stop there; I wanted to get to the top sooner.
As it turns out, only around eleven or twelve people arrive at the top before I do. The top is quite difficult to maneuver, because it is a bunch of pointed and slanted huge rocks.
This is a short tunnel that I have to climb through in order to climb the final twenty feet or so. On the other end is a steep ladder that leads to the very top.
A view from the very top, looking down at the ruins and Machu Picchu Mountain behind them. This photo was taken at 8:01 a.m..
Rather than attempting self-photos up here, I ask someone else to snap several photos of me, sitting here on top of this part of the world. I am quite proud of myself.
Yes, I am VERY tired, but I did it, faster than most people, and I feel energized.
Another one at the top. That is the ruins in the far distance, to the side of my head.
Another photo, looking down at the beautiful scene below.
This one is a self-portrait. I am quite happy.
And another.
At 8:04 a.m., a young man took this photo of me, standing on the highest rock in this area.
And another. I am happy to have these photos.
A few others at the top. It is very difficult to move around up here. Very steep on all sides, and these rocks are quite jagged and weirdly spaced.
A few others excitedly taking photos.
By 8:07 a.m., I step out of the crowd at the top of these rocks, and move a little way away, getting a photo of the crowd where I was standing a few minutes earlier.
Another self-taken photo.
This is on the back side of the peak. If you look closely, you can see a little sign there, with an arrow pointing to the right. Everyone needs to go down this way, but perhaps twenty feet further down, the trail splits. One direction goes back down the same way we came up. The other goes the long way, first dropping 1300 feet to the Temple of the Moon.
Below, if you look closely (or enlarge the photo), is where the trail splits. At this point in time, I remain undecided about which path I will follow. My legs are quite tired after an hour of steep climbing.
Down at the bottom of the twenty foot drop, where the trail splits. The left leads back to Machu Picchu. The right leads to the Great Cave (Gran Caverna) … and also to the Temple of the Moon. When I arrive here, and take this photo at 8:13 a.m., I make a quick decision.
I am going to hike to the right. I know the estimated total time of the trail is four hours (including the hour I have already spent) … but I am excited to venture on … and I have already seen all of the ruins in the park below – at least I have seen what I need to see.
The top was so crowded that there was really not much space to hang out anyway, so I begin what turns out to be a long and steep decent, down nearly 400 meters, or around 1300 feet (dropping far below the level of Machu Picchu).
One last glance, looking back toward the top of Wayna Picchu. you can see a few people up there.
Suddenly, I remember Bobby-bear and Brenda-doll. They really want proof that they too were up here, so I take a quick photo, with the summit still visible in the background.
A steep and narrow trail leading down the back side of Wayna Picchu. I think the waterfalls where I hiked two days ago are right below, in that canyon just to the left of the trail.
This is much steeper than it looks in the photo.
A similar photo.
This photo, with my foot showing at the bottom, gives a better feeling of the steepness as I gradually descend these narrow, uneven, and very steep steps.
Looking back up on another section of the trail.
In a few places, I climbed down steep ladders like this one.
Continuing down, down, down, down, down …
Finally, after forty-five minutes of down, down, down … I find this sign that points toward the Gran Caverna (Great Cavern), indicating that it is only twenty minutes away.
I soon find myself in this meadow area, walking near the Temple of the Moon, on my way to the Gran Caverna, which is a little further down the hill.
This is the sign for the “Temple of the Moon” as I pass it by.
This is a gate I pass through as I continue on the trail.
Looking up at the gate from further below.
The entrance to the “Great Cavern”.
Closer to the sign that marks the entrance.
The sign says the altitude here is 2266 meters (7434 feet) above sea level.
According to some sources, the top of Wayna Picchu is 2720 meters (8924 feet), meaning that my decent from the top was about 454 meters or 1490 feet – a very steep and difficult climb down.
Given that Machu Picchu is at 2430 meters (7970 feet), I will now have to turn around and climb back up 536 feet to return to the ruins. As it turns out I have to go up and down and up and down and up again.
In total, the original ascent was nearly 1000 feet, with a 1500 foot decent after that, and another 500 (plus) foot climb.
Inside the Great Cavern … It doesn’t look so great after all. It is actually quite small.
Another photo inside. These two photos really show about all there is to see.
Soon, I climb back toward the Temple of the Moon. In this photo, I am about to arrive. It is above me, just left of center of this photo.
Inside the Temple of the Moon, taken with a flash. It is dark in here.
I end up sitting near where the previous photo was taken. I meditate for perhaps a half hour while I rest and regain my strength.
This photo was taken from the spot where I was meditating, looking back toward the entrance area.
There is an orange stretcher there, which I can only assume is here in case someone has an emergency (such as heart attack or other serious issue) and is unable to climb out under their own power.
Before leaving, I asked the security guard (yes, there was a guard here) to please take a photo of me. I am sitting on a rock, just inside the entrance. This temple is also situated inside a large cave.
At 10:13 a.m. (three hours after beginning the hike this morning), I begin climbing back toward Machu Picchu. I am very tired by now.
This is the first part of the trail. I have an hour to go, and only about 500 feet to climb. But it seems that the trail just goes up, and up, and up, and ….. more up.
Another section of the trail. The vegetation is different here. I am not sure what that bright thing is on the left. It looks like a funny plant that caught the sun at just the perfect angle.
And it just keeps stepping up….
Finally, around 10:26 a.m., the trail seems to level off, and I come across this old small section of ruins.
I also find myself in an incredible view area. I am able to finally see the Machu Picchu ruins from this side of Wayna Picchu. If you click on the photo to enlarge it, you can easily see the tiny cluster of lighter colored ruins far in the distance (on top of the foreground mountain, and below the top of the peak of Machu Picchu Mountain in the far distance).
A glimpse inside this tiny ancient structure.
I take advantage of my zoom to get a beautiful photo of the entrance area, near the main gate of Machu Picchu.
And another fully zoomed photo of the caretaker’s hut region. This is where I sat yesterday morning as I took photos of the sunrise.
Then to my dismay, as I round the next bend of the trail, I see this huge vertical cliff between me and my destination.
At first, I wonder if the trail will take me over a narrow ledge, straight across the cliff – a cliff that is covered in gorgeous colors.
Another view of the cliff ahead.
Then I see the steep steps heading down, down, down. I don’t know how far down they go, but it feels like at least 200 feet, possibly more.
Continuing down, down, down …
And then, after an easy trail below the cliff, I have to go back up, up, up … on the other side of the cliff
And more up, and up, and up. The scenery is gorgeous, but I am panting for breath. It is 10:34 a.m. when I take this photo.
As I reach the top of this unexpected climb, I turn around and take another photo of the beautiful cliff, under which I just climbed down and back up.
And a look from above at some of the steps that I just climbed. (Hard to see in this thumbnail image.)
And another look back.
Soon, I find another ladder. I have to climb this one.
A glimpse in the direction of Machu Picchu.
Finally, I rejoin the main trail. At the junction I see this sign telling climbers to to up (and not down the trail that I just climbed).
I know exactly where the exit is, but I am happy to see this sign. (Photo taken at 10:48 a.m.)
Getting nearer to the ruins below (yup, I climbed back up above the ruins, at least another couple hundred above them … overall I think I have ascended close to 1000 feet from the Gran Caverna. I realize that with all the ups and downs, the four hour hike has literally been quite equivalent to climbing to the summit of Wayna Picchu, TWICE.
When I finally reach the the guard station at the beginning of the trail, I am exhausted and excited, both at the same time. As i “sign out” in the book, indicating that I have now completed the hike, I ask the guard if it is OK to take a photo of the book.
I am SO proud of the fact that I am number ONE on this list (enlarge the photo if you want to see) … and that my checkout time is exactly 11:08 a.m..
Since my “sign-in time” was 7:06 a.m., it seems that I completed this entire “four-hour” hike in only “four hours and two minutes”. And it was NOT easy.
Before doing anything, I rest on a bench in one of the huts near the trail entrance. I lie down and close my eyes for about twenty minutes. But finally, not getting much rest, I decide it is better for me to keep moving.
As I start to walk away, I take this photo of a man standing on top the lower nearby hill. The time is 11:28 a.m..
I soon begin to walk back through the ruins, looking for a shady space to meditate.
Looking up at the “Temple Zone” as I walk by, searching for shade. Machu Picchu is kind of “unfriendly” in this category. They only let you walk in certain areas, and totally keep you off the grassy areas in the middle. The places where you are allowed to walk and sit are quite limited – especially those with shade.
Looking toward the base of the hill that goes back up to the caretaker’s hut.
Looking up at the place where I meditated in the shade yesterday. It just seems too far away, with another huge climb to get there. I cannot imagine climbing up there again with my now-extremely-tired legs.
Looking up at the caretaker’s hut. NO, I DON’T WANT TO CLIMB UP THERE.
Finally, I discover a shady little cove, under some rocks, where I can sit and meditate – and I have this gorgeous view.
And I LOVE this photo.
A self-photo while I am inside this little shady cove.
And another one …
After being here for about forty-five minutes, the sun changes positions enough that I lose my shade. This is the spot where I have been sitting. My shady spot is finally so tiny that I have to move.
In search of better photos of Wayna Picchu, I walk over to the east side of the ruins, and get this spectacular vantage point of the steep, cliff-sided part of Wayna Picchu. I would definitely NOT want to climb this side.
Essentially, I climbed up the face, just to the left of the cliffs … then climbed over the top and down the back side, then around the far side back up to the original starting point.
Another similar view of the full Wayna Picchu Mountain, without the ruins blocking my view.
Looking down at the tall mountain between Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes.
And another glance at the zigzagging road that brings nonstop buses from the valley floor to the top of the mountain.
I had intended to stay longer, but I am so tired from hiking. I decide to leave at shortly after 1:00 p.m..
There is a long line of people waiting for buses. Finally, at 1:34 p.m., I take this photo inside my bus as I head back down the mountain.
It has been a very long day, given the fact that I have already been inside the Machu Picchu area for seven and a half hours.
As we head down the mountain, I take a few photos through the bus window.
In this one, you can barely see a corner of Aguas Calientes at the end of the valley below.
This is the last photo I take in the Machu Picchu region.
Ollantaytambo, Here We Come
I arrive back in Aguas Calientes by around 2:00 p.m., but I no longer have a hotel room, and my train does not leave till around 5:30 p.m. – I have several hours to kill, no place to go, and am so tired that all I want to do is lie down and fall asleep.
After a quick burger at that same fast food place in the central plaza, I hang out on a park bench, struggling to keep myself occupied with activity and people-watching, while desperately trying NOT to fall asleep.
Shortly before 4:30 p.m., I walk down to the train station and do more of the same (trying to stay awake).
Finally, I am on the train. At last I can relax.
Another photo of the inside of my train (taken at 5:07 p.m.).
A self-photo in the train.
I want to fall asleep, but a local man sits next to me and begins to talk … and talk … and talk. Eventually I do start to doze.
But I am soon wide awake when the unexpected entertainment begins. It is too dark outside to see any scenery, but now the sights are inside.
This is one of the attendants for our car. He has dressed up in traditional clothing for one of the annual festivals in Ollantaytambo. He is a lot of fun.
Some music plays, and he grabs several women to dance with him.
Then the other two attendants for our train car begin a fashion show, modeling alpaca clothing that the Peru Rail company is sponsoring.
It is actually a very fun show, and they involve several people from the train, dressing them up and having them strut their stuff. Luckily, I am blocked in by my chatty friend, so they don’t try to pull me out of my seat…
More of the fashion show…
And another outfit…
A closer view of the same sweater/poncho.
One of the passengers, modeling a sweater …
Another passenger, a young boy, modeling a sweater…
The same guy from before, but with a different mask. He keeps the fashion show entertaining …
Our attendants posing when the show is over …
Trip Wrap-up
At shortly before 7:00 p.m., our train pulls into the Ollantaytambo station. The train is pulling four separate passenger cars, and ours is the only one destined for Ollantaytambo.
To my surprise, as we disembark, they actually disconnect our car from the train (we are at the end) and the rest of the train continues on toward Cusco.
I already have a reservation to sleep at the same little hotel where I stayed three nights ago … but they have no record of the reservation. It is not problem, however, because they do have room available.
After simply eating a few snacks before spending the night in Ollantaytambo, I eat breakfast on Tuesday, June 3, 2014, and then go off in search of a collectivo that will take me to Urubamba. The task proves to be easy. About ninety minutes later, after a transfer in Urubamba, I arrive back in Pisac, well before noon.
It has been an amazing and magical four-and-a-half days. But it has also been exhausting. I have hiked and climbed and hiked and climbed, and am craving some much needed rest.
Feeling happy to be home, I close the door and take a very long and satisfying nap.
Copyright © 2014 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved