(Note: Due to more problems with my subscription service, I again deleted my last photo post and am reposting it as two smaller ones. This is the second of those resubmitted posts. Hopefully, this will solve the problem again.)
On November 26, 2012, I flew from Salt Lake City, Utah, back to Cancun, Mexico and then took a short bus ride back to Playa Del Carmen, spending the evening near the beach in the touristy part of town.
Just before flying to Utah, after having already purchased my tickets, I found out that there was going to be another indigenous festival at Kaxan Xuul — lasting three days and two nights, from the afternoon of November 27 till the morning of November 29, 2012. The timing was synchronous and perfect.
While contemplating my bus ticket to get from Playa Del Carmen to Valladolid, I received a Facebook message from my friend Eduardo in Cozumel. He had decided to go too, and wanted to know if I wanted to share a rental car with him. To make a long story short, Eduardo and I met at noon on November 27, rented a car, and made the couple hour drive together.
For anyone who has followed my journey, Kaxan Xuul is profoundly significant to me. It was here, at nearby Ek Balam, that I spent five days participating in an indigenous festival in November 2009. It was here that a jungle tick bit my foot, A Zapotec healer decided to burn me with glowing charcoal (well he didn’t actually decide), and it was in nearby Valladolid where I spent three months healing the resulting third degree burn. It was also here that I gifted a sacred “Ceiba” tree — one that is now thriving on the grounds of Kaxan Xuul.
For me, this journey was a type of homecoming. I attended the first festival in 2009. Returned twice in subsequent years to visit, and am now attending the fourth festival in 2012 – this time with my dear friend Eduardo who connected me up in with this group in the first place.
As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.
CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION
Kaxan Xuul
This is a new sign that now marks this sacred site. Kaxan Xuul is a small unexcavated pyramid in the tiny village of Ek Balam, near the more famous ruins of Ek Balam. It is now the site of an annual “Fuego Nuevo de Chikaban” festival (of which I attended the first and now the fourth).
This is a program for this “fourth” festival. It reads “Fourth Mayan Ceremony of the New Fire of Chikaban … A new cycle is initiated … A new offering begins.”
This is a page of the flyer that talks about the first festival — the one I attended in 2009. In the photo, the Mayan Shaman Bartolome (full title in the poster) is leading an incredible fire ceremony. At the time, I was standing somewhere very near to where the camera is. For all I know, I may have taken this photo from where I was standing LOL.
I rented this little private cabana … the only private one in this tiny eco-village. Others were camping, with a few sleeping in a shared building.
A close view of my cabana. It had two twin beds with mosquito nets … one on the right end, and one on the left end. It was really like camping, because the door and windows were nothing but mesh screen without full coverage … and the mattresses were not all that comfy.
My bed, with my backpack and suitcase in the foreground. Since Eduardo had no prearranged place to sleep, I let him have the bed on the other end of my cabin.
This well is new since I was last here. It supplies water to a larger tank down below and to the left.
This is the larger tank down below. The white pipe comes from the well above.
And a little further down is a small outdoor kitchen area where we had our meals.
This is a permanent sweat lodge structure. I have now participated in two sweat lodges here … one in 2009, and one on Nov 27, 2012, late in the evening.
This trail leads toward the unexcavated pyramid.
This is the unexcavated pyramid (hill-like structure nestled in the trees). If you look closely, you can see a sacred little Ceiba tree with some red ribbons tied to it, just to the right side of the trail in the foreground. There are now several of these trees growing here.
As far as Eduardo and I could tell (based on what others told us, and based on our own intuitions), this is the tree that I donated in 2009. Eduardo first gave it to me before I left Cozumel, asking me to plant it somewhere in the Yucatan. When I attended the festival, I donated it to the leaders in charge, and they had the head Mayan Shaman in the area (Bartolome) plant it later during a sacred ceremony in which I was not present.
It is hard to see in this photo, but this stone arch frames my little tree in the background. (This is the official entrance to the garden area where the pyramid is located.)
My dear friend Eduardo, holding this sacred Ceiba tree. Even though I am the one that donated it to Kaxan Xuul, he is the one that raised it from a seedling and donated it to me.
Me, holding the sacred little tree. It is not so little anymore. I remember how tiny this was when I actually carried it in my backpack.
Looking up into the tree.
And another view of the same tree.
A couple of women preparing “Pollo Pibil” (Pibil chicken). This is a yummy, tender chicken dish native to this region. This was actually a ceremony in and of itself.
The first two chickens placed on banana leaves in the pan.
Meanwhile, the gardener dug a hole and built this fire. it will be used to cook the chicken.
The pan is filling up.
Adding another chicken to the mix.
My dear friend Eduardo visiting with others at the table while the chicken is being prepared.
This young man also participated in 2009. He has a beautiful energy about him. As I look at this photo, I almost swear that I saw him on the boat this morning, but I did not recognize him. (I think it was someone else).
The chicken is prepared, a metal lid was placed over it, and it was buried in the hot coals. The gardener is now covering the lid with soil. The chicken is buried.
Under this mound, the chicken cooks.
I missed the unearthing, because I walked into the village with Eduardo and a few others. This is what it looks like when it is uncovered and ready to serve.
Some of the banana leaves have now been removed. You can see the yummy, tender, spicy chicken.
Yum …
Serving up some bowls.
My small portion.
After lunch, I followed a bunch of men down by the ceremonial site where they had some work to do. They needed this large stone moved and placed atop an altar.
Many minds trying to figure out how to do the job.
They managed to lift this huge stone onto logs and carried it very carefully.
This is every bit as big and heavy as it looks.
Eduardo joined in to help … front and center.
The big flat rock is about to be placed on top of this pile of rocks.
Now that it is in place, Eduardo and others place small rocks in all the cracks, shoring it up so that it is stable.
Another view of a work in progress. Eduardo is on the right.
An all-night dance ceremony will be held in the middle of these trees.
A cute little artifact on the altar. I’m not sure if it is authentic or a replica.
A couple of young boys help build a wall around the fire ceremony area.
Many of the men working hard to prepare the ceremonial fire area.
The process was tedious. The organizers wanted everything to be just perfect.
This is Carmen. She is the main organizer this year. She was raised in this village.
It was intended that four groups would stand outside the area, behind cordoned off areas like this. When Bartolome arrived, he invited us all to move closer, surrounding the fire.
Continuing to clean up and organize the area. Right now, I am standing on top of the unexcavated pyramid.
A nearby beautiful bird, enjoying the jungle.
An organizational meeting to figure out who would play what instruments, which group we would belong to, etc…
This young man let me play a shell-flute that he had with him.
A very interesting man. He triggered me in many different ways. Need I say more?
A map showing intended standing areas, with the fire pit in the middle.
Me, ready for the ceremony. Since I did not know about this ceremony before I left San Marcos, I had to buy some more white clothes while I was in Utah.
The fire burning brightly in the darkness.
I did not take photos during the ceremony itself. These are taken afterward, as people visited and prepared for an all-night vigil.
The Shaman (Aj Men Bartolome) who led the ceremony is in the back center, with his arms outstretched, wearing a sweater.
Playing with the fire. In the right foreground is a large conch shell used in the ceremony.
This woman is taking a few coals out of the fire to use in her incense burner (in her left hand).
Bartolome (The head shaman in this region) visiting with a local woman. I really love his energy.
This is the little flute made from a shell. I used it to make musical noise during the ceremony. It has a very small range of off-key notes.
Bartolome blessing Carmen.
Bartolome blessing Eduardo.
It was a beautiful full moon. In fact, this ceremony normally takes place a week or two earlier in November, but was postponed until tonight because of many celestial alignments.
Many people stayed up all night tending the fire. I only stayed up till around 11:00 p.m.. I slept a few hours and then returned around 5:30 a.m. for the sunrise ceremony.
Many sang songs and played instruments.
This is the altar at the base of the pyramid. The top level is where the huge rock was placed earlier in the afternoon. There is also a middle level and a bottom level. I cannot remember the exact details, but I believe the bottom level is for items that will be left for the local people who live here, and the middle level is for people to place personal items that they wish to have blessed. They will later come back to take them with them.
Another view of the altar.
A close-up of the top level. I cannot remember what this was for.
Many people danced for hours among the trees that I showed earlier. I tried, but the steps were complicated and I was unable to pick them up … plus it was extremely tiring and strenuous.
This is Carmen’s mother (or grandmother?). She sat on top the pyramid much of the night, telling stories to those who would listen. I would have listened, but she was talking in Spanish and I did not understand her well.
More playing in the fire.
And playing with a guitar.
Eduardo and Carmen — two very amazing friends.
Me with Eduardo and Carmen.
The later it gets, the more tired people look.
As I mentioned earlier, I did not stay up all night. As I returned to my cabin, I took this photo. I think it was around 11:00 p.m. …
This photo was taken at just after 5:30 a.m.. The sky is starting to show light, and the full moon still shines. It is not actually as light as this photo makes it appear.
This photo of the beautiful full moon is more accurate as far as the brightness of the sky.
A view of those still gathered around the burning fire. These brave souls stayed up all night (even though many of them have been sleeping a little on the ground).
People starting to stir, preparing for the sunrise farewell ceremony.
People are a lot more wrapped up now. It was cooler during the night.
Eduardo in the cool morning air.
Many people look very tired.
A few minutes later, the sun pokes its orange glow into the skies.
A daytime view of where the dance ceremony was held late last night. They marked it off in sections, with the more skilled dancers being in the middle so that others could watch them.
View from the base of this small pyramid, looking at the top where the fire ceremony was held.
Morning view of the altar. Most of the personal items have now been removed from the middle level.
A final view of my little Ceiba tree as I leave for the last time.
The stone gate that marks the entrance to the sacred ceremonial grounds.
The Journey Home
Late in the morning, Eduardo drove me to Valladolid in our shared rental car, where he took me to the bus station, and then dropped me off at the Hostal La Candelaria. I purchased an afternoon ticket to return to Merida, with a quick connection for an overnight bus back to San Cristobal De Las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico.
But before I took the buses, I had a couple of hours for a beautiful visit with my friend Tanya at the Hostel where I spent three months healing my third degree burn in 2009/2010.
After spending the night in San Cristobal at a very noisy hotel by the bus station, I then took a tourist shuttle on the morning of December 1, 2012, arriving back in San Marcos later that evening.
It was a very long journey, but I finally slept in my own bed again, preparing for another long season of intense inner work on Keith’s chocolate porch.
Copyright © 2013 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved