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Just a few days before his 70th birthday, my landlord Abelardo invited me, with advance notice, requesting that I plan to join his family in a traditioinal “Pacha Mancha”  celebration — which literally translates to “Earth Oven” — or a meal cooked in the earth.

This post contains 147 photos spanning that celebration on December 2, 2014 up to January 9, 2015.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

Pacha Mancha

Pacha is the Quechua word for earth. When you hear the phrase “Pacha Mama” this is the old Inca way of saying “Mother Earth”.

Mancha is the Quechua word for oven.

On December 2, 2014, I participated in a fascinating celebration of my landlord’s 70th birthday. His friend, and our gardener, Nicolas, cooked the magical earth-oven dinner from start to finish.

This little fire pit is out at the upper end of the fields in front of my kitchen, just below the flower garden and gate that lead into my river playground.

Beneath the wood, the fire pit is lined with large rocks to hold and contain the heat. In this photo, the fire has just been lit. A large metal grate is placed over the wood, and on top of the grate is a very large pile of rocks similar to the ones under the wood. The fire will make those rocks very hot.

The fire is getting hotter as Nicolas, the gardener and Abelardo’s friend, is working with the earth as the fire continues to burn. Right now it is smoldering with really hot coals.

A closeup of the same scene.

All of the food is laid out in preparation for the cooking.

And there is a lot of chicken and pork as well.

Many of Nicolas’s family help by wrapping all the meat up in foil pouches.

A busy work crew.

Nicolas preparing the coals.

Saving some of the coals by the side.

The metal grate has been carefully removed and all of the hot rocks are piled on the sides.

Just about ready for the food.

First the various types of potatoes are placed directly on the hot rocks lining the bottom of the pit.

Next, all of the meat is placed on top of that.

Then Nicolas carefully places some of the hot rocks on top of the meat in the foil packets.

On top of that goes more meat and then bananas.

And then a pineapple and some squash.

On top of that go more rocks and then a plastic tarp.

And then another tarp.

On top of the second tarp, Nicolas spreads a lot of lima beans, still in their pods.

And then again, another tarp.

Finally, the tarp is covered with soil to help keep the heat inside.

Continuing to shovel on more earth.

Meanwhile, out in the river playground, the party is about to begin. This man brought his accordion.

And some of Abelardo’s relatives playing guitar and singing.

Having fun with the band.

My landlord, Abelardo, taking photos, and enjoying being the center of attention.

Talking to one of his sisters.

Posing with family and friends.

Dancing with his sister.

Me, enjoying the whole occasion, sitting on the sidelines.

Lots of family came to celebrate. The bench they are sitting on is the one that I normally sit on just outside my kitchen window.

More family. The man in the background is Abelardo’s cousin. He comes frequently to check on the garden and on Chuck (the dog) when Abelardo is traveling. He is actually Chuck’s real owner.

And this is beautiful Chuck (Pronunced in Spanish as shoe-k).

More dancing.

Extended family sitting on the river wall.

In the middle of the party, a neighbor comes down the irrigation channel to adjust the ditch controls. This is a common sight when I am out here doing ceremonies alone.

The band members get tired and sit down to continue. The man standing on the right is Epifanio (the one in the light colored shirt). He is Abelardo’s brother, and is the one that met me in Cusco on the morning of August 29, 2014, when I had a broken arm. Epifanio was so kind and gentle when he escorted me from the collectivo (minivan) stop, guiding me down the street, across a foot bridge, and down another block to the Clinica Pardo where I found an orthopedic surgeon to take care of my broken bone.

Abelardo taking a short break.

The family drank several cases of these large beer bottles (not visible in the thumbnail image) … as I was later (at night) trying to sleep downstairs, they continued to party loudly upstairs.

Someone sprinkled confetti on all of us.

Abelardo, toasting his seventieth birthday.

Chuck having fun just watching.

The music was mostly continuous all afternoon.

Finally, at around 3:30 p.m., Nicolas begins to remove the dirt from the Pacha Mancha … apparently the food is done.

When they pull back the tarp, lots of hot steam escapes.

Continuing to remove the tarp.

First, the lima beans are removed from between the tarps.

And here they are.

Next, the remaining two tarps are pulled back.

Nicolas and his son remove the bananas, pineapple, and squash.

Next, the meat is unwrapped and placed in large pans. I hope they are clean.

Finally, hot moist potatoes are removed from the bottom.

All of the food is then carried out to the river playground where Nicolas and his son then begin to put it on plates.

Chuck watches on eagerly. I think he knows that he will get to eat many of the scraps.

This is my overfilled plate. The large corn (called choclo) was cooked inside the house.

And the music continues. Another man came late and began to play along with them.

A view from the platform above the dam.

A very nice profile photo of Epifanio.

And the dancing continues as Abelardo and Epifanio dance with family members.

And the cousin joins in as well.

At one point, Abelardo approached me with his had outstretched. I tried to tell him that I don’t dance, but he insisted. I danced one dance with him. It made me a little nervous because he asked his sister to take a video of our entire dance together. “Why would he want a video of us dancing together?” I pondered as I awkwardly moved my feet, trying to mimic their style.

More dancing and music.

A nice photo of Abelardo and Epifanio.

The man with the white baseball cap is Abelardo’s cousin. I am not sure who the other one is … but a family member for sure.

Looking up at the mountains across the valley.

Another view from a distance.

The corn field (maize) across the river. It is now getting very tall.

And the other corn field, slightly upstream … is also growing rapidly.

But for now, the river is still quite low.

My left hand, rubbing Chuck’s neck.

It was a very fun and culturally-educating afternoon, with great food. But needless to say, I didn’t get much sleep with all the family partying late into the night.

A Shared Ceremony

On December 10, 2014, my friend Diana came to visit me and we did a ceremony together. She is a magical young woman that I met in Guatemala … and who later joined me at the Temple of the Way of Light in the jungle just outside of Iquitos. She was a yoga teacher there … and during a vacation break, came to experience the Sacred Valley.

Diana, sitting on my kitchen bench, glowing with a huge smile while catching a little sun on her legs.

As we talked prior to our ceremony, I showed Diana this domino that I have recently found in the garden just below my kitchen wall. It has special metaphorical significance to me and I wanted a photo of it.

Some beautiful flowers just over the wall from my playground.

A San Pedro (Huachuma) cactus growing on the river wall.

Looking up at Mount Pitusiray with the cactus in the foreground.

A ladybug on a nearby plant. Lots of ladybugs visited me during December.

More of those beautiful flowers.

A view of the flower garden.

More flowers.

On that day, the river turned to chocolate color.

Part of the chocolate irrigation ditch.

And the chocolate river itself.

The chocolate pool and chocolate dam.

Looking downstream at the chocolate water.

More of those gorgeous flowers.

… mixed with very magical cactus plants.

This is the little irrigation channel that run from the ditch-controls in the river playground, down between two walls that separate Abelardo’s property from the neighbor property.

Looking back toward the river playground.

The sky was beautiful that day.

And the clouds were very “stringy” with little white fluffy lines.

A zoomed view of a canyon on the side of Pitusiray.

Me, later in the ceremony. My hair was all tangly and wet. I sat in the irrigation ditch for a while and was quite wet.

A Total Shutdown

At midnight on Sunday night, just as Monday December 15, 2014 was beginning, I heard a great deal of noise outside of my bedroom window. There were loud horns honking, along with the thump thump of large rocks being rolled around – plus lots of voices.

I had been informed a few hours earlier that we were going to have a “paro” which literally translated means “stoppage” – but essentially means “strike”.

Apparently, there was a boundary dispute between the Calca Province (the entire region from Cusco to Urubamba) and the neighboring province that encompasses the town of Quillabamba. Somewhere along the border, Quillabamba had built a school that was actually on Calca Province property. Once the error was discovered, the government decided to solve the problem by simply giving the land from the Calca province to the other province.

The people in the Calca province would have none of that nonsense. They felt invaded and they called a general strike to protest. For all of Monday and Tuesday, midnight to midnight on both December 15 and 16th, the entire region was on complete shutdown. All major roads were barricaded and every store, bank, market, hotel, and government office was closed. Literally all commercial activity came to a complete and utter stop.

The road from Calca toward Lares was blocked directly in front of my bedroom window.

I stepped outside my house at about 7:00 a.m. on Dec 15 to take a look at what was going on. You can see a large concrete telephone pole partially blocking the road down below.

This is looking up the road from the door of my house. This barricade is directly outside of my bedroom window, blocking the entire street over to the “mule monument” on the far side.

Right now, there are only about 20 or 30 people standing around. They even have a fire and are cooking food.

A slightly different angle.

Another photo.

About two hours later, there were several hundred people standing in the street as men on loudspeakers rallied the crowd in some type of labor meeting.

The noisy crowd continued to grow as the morning continued with rallies and speeches. At one point I opened my door to check and there were so many people hiding from a light rain that I could not step outside. A man was animatedly yelling on a megaphone right by my door.

“Mucha bulla”, I giggled as the man paused to look at me. (That means a lot of ruckus and noise.)

“Welcome to Peru, we make a lot of noise here,” he giggled back at me (in Spanish of course).

“Continue on,” I smiled and implied my approval, closing the door with a giggle.

I was developing a new appreciation as to why Jeanette and I could not travel from Copacabana to Puno for two days in Mid November. I could only imagine that the road barricades there were much like this one.

Meanwhile, in the midst of the work stoppage, Nicolas was out back, in my garden, beginning to add adobe blocks to the short wall between Abelardo’s property and the neighbor’s property behind my kitchen. He didn’t stop until he ran out of adobe blocks. He could not get more until the strike was done.

I didn’t take any more photos on the first or second day. I wish I had, but did not take my camera with me when I went out to explore the town. There was literally no business activity anywhere. Most every door was closed tight. Only a few people were out walking around, and absolutely no vehicles or motorcycles. The adults that I saw looked distraught and exhausted, along with the occasional drunk passed out here or there. The children I saw were excitedly playing as if nothing was going on. It was quite the contrast of adult exhaustion and childlike excitement.

I have never seen a place so shut down … literally no traffic on the roads … a complete stoppage of all commercial activity, except for a few people casually walking around.

As far as I could tell by the sounds outside my window, the barricades were cleared at midnight on Tuesday night. On Wednesday morning I stepped outside my door for a couple more photos. I was surprised to see that the barricade had been greatly strengthened before being partially dismantled. More large rocks, plus that concrete telephone pole had been used to block the street. Now the road was open, but no one bothered to remove the blocks for many days to come.

A closeup of the remaining blockage.

Christmas Eve Ceremony

On Christmas Eve, my friend Diana and her friend (my new friend) Mathieu came to spend some time with me and we enjoyed another magical ceremony together.

This is Diana, having a magical time exploring my flower garden.

She found a beautiful rose. I love this photo of her. If you enlarge the photo, you can see Mathieu off to the right.

Diana and Mathieu posing with the flower.

A beautiful photo of the two of them playing in the flourishing garden.

Another photo of the river. I took this photo as a memory, because during the ceremony today, I decided that it was finally time for me to get down there in that pool. The water was getting higher and I felt that now was the time — I finally had enough strength in my right wrist to catch myself, and if I didn’t do it today the water would be too high and rough in the future.

Carefully removing my watch and cell phone (from my pocket), I walked down in there fully clothed and enjoyed the freezing water for a good ten minutes, standing up to my armpits in the pool just about five feet below the water fall. It was a very energizing experience.

Later, still wet from my first excursion, I very carefully waded out into the upper part of this water fall (upper level) and sat down on the large rock that sits about two feet above the brink of the dam. It was magical (and cold). Later I went in and took a warm shower before putting on clean clothes.

Looking upstream. The river is higher than usual (based on my past experience) … but is about to get much higher … so much so that this Christmas Eve was the last time I have been down in the water.

The maize field just above the dam continues to grow rapidly.

A look at the bridge just above the dam. Diana and I walked back and forth across this river today, but we were very careful to hang onto that bridge above to get stability.

We had a lot of fun playing around in the corn field on the other side.

That beautiful rose in the flower garden.

Looking back at my kitchen. The field below has still not been replanted.

Enjoying the sun with the bottom part of my pants zipped off.

Diana got creative with this one.

And I felt giggly and silly … thus the crazy facial expression.

I’m not sure whose idea it was, but we all put a rose petal on our noses, just goofing around.

Diana with her rose petal.

And another one, with magical sun-ray effects coming down from above.

Me, just being silly.

And another photo that I love (without the rose petal).

Mathieu still being silly.

I love the orbs down below. They didn’t show up in our normal vision, but are all over the photos that I took. The one on the right has rainbow bands through it. (Enlarge the photo to see them.)

And this purple orb is beautiful.

The focus on the orb is sharper in this photo.

the river is getting chocolaty again.

Looking downstream, I love that purple orb again … and I love how it is in a different spot so that I know it is not just a spot on the camera, and in this angle, I am not even looking directly into the sun.

If you click and enlarge the photo, you can also see the rainbow orb again on the far right side.

In this one, the purple orb has moved to the bottom.

Just love these orbs.

Finishing A New Wall

On New Year’s Eve, Nicolas’s family put the final finishing touches on this new wall right beside my kitchen. I had a lot of fun watching them build it — and in my process, the timing of the building brought great metaphorical meaning in ways I won’t try to explain here.

An older young man works on top of the wall while a young woman helps to hoist mud up from below. Her daughter is playing under that tarp (it was sprinkling earlier).

In this photo you can can see the child under the tarp.

Replanting At Last

On the morning of January 9, 2015, I giggled when i stepped outside to see an unexpected treat. Several young men, and other family members, were in the fields just outside of my kitchen window, using a team of bulls to plow the old weeds and cauliflower stubble, preparing to plant a new crop.

They started in the upper field.

Chuck (the dog) had fun hanging out with them.

This photo is with no zoom, showing the activity in the distance.

Zoomed in, showing them plowing the upper field.

Finally, they began to plow right beside my kitchen. This is them plowing along the new wall.

I got a few really nice photos with them being so close.

Coming right toward me, just ten feet away.

Passing right by me.

Over on the other side of the lower field.

A closeup showing their harnesses.

The whole family was helping to remove weeds etc, including this young girl in the lower right.

Making great progress.

This young woman even helped with her little girl strapped to her back.

A real family affair.

I love this photo.

Just about done. They are now plowing right up close to the patio area on the right.

When they finished, they tied a large flat board where the plow had been before, and they drug that board all over, back and forth, to flatten the furrows.

More flattening …

I didn’t take more photos, but soon they went through with the plow again and put a deep furrow every ten feet or so.

They had actually plowed the entire field twice before leveling it off. After the first plowing they scattered seeds all over, and then plowed it again, and then flattened it.

For several days, birds landed all over the field trying to find unburied seeds.

Nicolas told me in December they were going to plant pasture for guinea pig food. As the grain grows taller (in March), it looks a lot like wheat. Perhaps it is wheat, and perhaps it is another type of similar grain … I am going to have to find out.

Summary

This concludes my photos for this post. It has been a very eventful year, ending in the last two months with magical visits from friends, a total work stoppage with events right outside my house, and the planting of new crops for the future.

What a beautiful metaphor for what I have been through, massive heart opening and undoing of ego conditioning, met with a total stopping of the old, met with new growth in friendships, and the planting of new seeds for the future.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

In November, 2015, Jeanette and I spent a week traveling to-and-from Lake Titicaca. This post contains 147 photos, picking up on the final day of our time in Lake Titicaca (November 20) and then continues with all of the other fun activities that Jeanette and I did prior to her leaving Peru — including a shamanic ceremony, exploring Calca, hiking above Calca, and a visit to Cusco.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

A Copacabana Hike

After extending our visit to Copacabana for two days due to a labor strike in Peru, Jeanette and I decided to spend our final morning in Bolivia by hiking around the shores of Lake Titicaca, hoping to explore an area below Calvary Hill that we had seen from the boat tours.

I had tried to hike here in June, but could not find a way to do it. There is a small military/coast-guard-like station right along the shore of Lake Titicaca on the north side of Copacabana, and it appears that the guarded station blocks access to this part of the shoreline.

But Jeanette and I explored other possibilities and discovered a trail that goes up, over, and around that station. This is part of that beautiful trail.

Jeanette, enjoying the trail. The military base is right below us on the  right.

A view from the trail, with another tour boat headed out toward the Island of the Sun.

Some flowers along the trail.

After a little more than a half-hour, we arrived at our goal — a little ceremonial area on the other side of Calvary Hill.

This black almost-cave had caught our eye many times when passing by on a boat. From a distance it looked like a deep cave. Up close you can see it is just blackened from all the fires that have been burned here.

Another view of the black cave-like area.

On our first day in Copacabana, when we took the short tour to the fake floating islands, the gentleman who was on top of the boat with us told us that this area is a sacred ceremonial space, and that they celebrate a “frog” here, and break lots of champagne bottles.

Jeanette and I were confused … of course, part of that confusion was the language barrier.

This mural was painted on a cliff right next to the water. The man is lableled as “Manko Kapac” and the woman as “Mama Ocllo”. The words below the woman read “Welcome to the mouth of the frog” (in Spanish of course).

We soon found the broken champagne bottles. the entire beach under this sign was covered with a very thick layer of broken glass from those bottles.

More of the broken glass, looking down toward the water. You can see the white spray of a tiny wave in the upper left of the photo.

Zooming in to show the glass from the bottles. It appears that this is part of a sacred ritual.

You cannot see it from this perspective, but this rock looks like a giant frog, and as far as we could tell, the bottles are broken against this rock.

Me, standing below the large painted mural, just to give an idea of size.

Jeanette, standing beside the frog rock. From a different perspective, that rock at the left end looks like an open mouth.

A little frog statue left in a small alcove of the bigger frog rock.

And another frog offering left on the bigger rock. There are several frog statues in these plastic bags.

I walked out on a boat dock to take this photo of Jeanette, the frog rock, and the mural behind.

From even further out on the dock. You can almost make out the shape of a frog with that large rock.

Me, standing in front of the dock, with the Island of the Sun in the distant background.

Me, in the same place, with no zoom. The Island of the Sun is in the distant left. The large peninsula extending out on the upper right side is all part of the mainland.

Some beautiful moss-covered rocks along the shore here.

I love the long green “hairs” of this moss.

Another perspective of the ceremonial space.

Jeanette on the dock.

there is a lot more broken glass on the ground right here too. You will have to enlarge the photo to really see Jeanette.

Looking down at the ceremonial area from above.

These steps are the last part of the trail that we used to get here.

Scattered all over this area were these little storage vaults. Most of them have locks on the door. It appears that they are used to store ceremonial materials to be used by the people when they come here for little festivals. We saw large groups of people here once when we passed by on a boat.

Zoomed in view of the Island of the Sun in the background.

A hydrofoil boat zooming by the beach area. These are quite fast compared to the slow boats that I have ridden on in the lake.

Uros Floating Islands Near Puno

After our relaxed and delightful hike, we returned to Copacabana, checked out of our hotel, grabbed a quick lunch, and caught our 1:00 p.m. bus that would take us back to the Bolivian border and then on to Puno, Peru. This time we had no problems at the border, passing through both sides in record time.

Crossing our fingers, we had made arrangements with a local tour operator to take that 1:00 p.m. boat, with the assurance that someone would meet us in Puno, take us on a tour to the Uros Floating Islands there, and then get us back to the bus station for a 10:00 p.m. overnight bus back to Cusco.

To my surprise, everything worked like clockwork.

At just after 4:00 p.m., back in Puno, we were boarding a tour boat and cruising down a narrow channel, surrounded on both sides by reeds. These are the same reeds that the Uros people use to build their islands and most everything on them.

Yes, it is raining right now, but the rains subside a few minutes later, giving us beautiful weather for our late afternoon tour.

Still cruising toward the floating islands.

Looking back toward Puno … it is not dark yet … it just looks that way in this photo because of how the camera adjusts to the bright glaring sun.

You can barely see some of the floating islands in the distance. This is my first time to this large village of floating islands. In June, I visited a different one, way out across the bay on our way to Amantani Island.

Passing by a little hut that guards the entrance to the village.

The lower sign reads “Welcome to the 87 floating islands of the Uros”

The upper sign reads “Kamisaraki” which is a Uros word for Welcome.

I was very surprised as we pulled into a large lagoon area surrounded by many of the 87 floating islands. Some are tiny and others quite large, even containing schools for the children.

Again looking back toward the almost-setting sun. One of the islands is hidden in the darkness.

Another island in the foreground.

A traditional reed boat.

Part of another floating island. I am not sure if that is a lookout tower or a water tank.

And another of the islands.

These islands are everywhere. Apparently the Uros people have been living on islands like these for over 400 years.

Another view.

And another …

I love the way their build their homes

This sign reads “Welcome to the Uros Island: Suma Uro”

Finally, our boat stops at one of the islands, and we all sit on the soft reeds to watch a demonstration of how these islands are built. The large dark clump between the two men is a huge chunk of root material from the reeds. This is very light weight and floats. All of the islands are floating on top of layers of these roots. Then, they criss-cross the top of the island with reeds, and then they build their structures on top of that.

A closeup of the same.

In order to cook on the islands, they make clay fireplaces in which they can build their fires, and place their pots.

Miniature model of a traditional reed boat.

That is our tour guide in the purple shirt, and a Uros man in the orange vest. I don’t know for sure, but in June, on my previous tour to a Uros island near Amantani Island, our tour guide then told us that some of the people on these Uros islands close to Puno don’t actually stay here at night anymore.

Some of the beautiful handmade textiles available for purchase. These tell the story of the Uros people.

I ended up buying one similar to this.

And I bought one of these amazing mobiles too. I had seen them in June and never bought one. Now that I have my own house, I wanted to hang one in it. I doubt that I will try to take it traveling with me, however.

This young woman, in her twenties, is Maria. I spent some time with her and bought some handmade fabric and my mobile from her.

As we all got in a traditional reed boat to go to another island, these women came to give us a singing sendoff.

And this little girl is a real ham. She came on the boat with us and entertained us with many songs in various languages.

Heading out on our boat.

It was a large boat, and they powered it by pushing it with a small boat that had a motor.

The young girl singing to us.

Passing by another island. The late afternoon sun gives things a special glow.

I love this photo with the setting sun in the background.

And this one too…

It was an interesting boat … with traditional reed pontoons, but with a wooden structure where we could all sit comfortably, both on the lower level where Jeanette is (in the pink coat) … and in an upper level up that ladder.

We got off the reed boat on a different island … a larger one that is a small community center.

Me, on the second island. The word at the very top reads “Quechua” which is the language of the Incas. The descendents of the Incas are usually called “Quechuas”. The word in the small circle reads “Uros”, which of course is the name of people that build these islands and live on them.

Jeanette, posing for the sunset.

And a beautiful sunset it was.

With no more sun, our tour boat picked us up at the second island and we made our way back to Puno in the fading daylight.

A night view of Puno as seen from the boat.

As Jeanette and I enjoyed dinner at a restaurant near the center of Puno, this band came into the restaurant to serenade us.

They were even selling CDs of their music.

After a delightful meal, Jeanette and I caught a taxi back to the bus terminal, where at 10:00 p.m. we took an overnight luxury Transzela bus back to Cusco. We arrived in Cusco at around 5:00 a.m. the next morning.

Traditional Quechua Ceremony

On November 22, 2014, Jeanette and I hired a local Shaman woman “Regina” to do a Despacho ceremony for us. I had met her in July, and when we stopped by to visit her, we started talking about ceremonies and everything just evolved from that.

We did the ceremony in my river playground. I didn’t take any photos during the ceremony itself.

That is Regina in the middle. We are posing on my patio near the kitchen area. Regina runs a little shaman shop in Calca — and is the fourth generation of women in her family to do so.

And another taken with Jeanette’s camera.

Exploring Calca

On November 23, 2014, Jeanette and I set out on a mission. I had seen a large blue dome from a distance — so many times — but had never figured out where it actually was — because once I got into the city the dome was hidden from view by the buildings. Today we found it.

This is an outdoor soccer stadium. Several times, I had walked beside a wall that surrounds it, but had never looked to see what was inside.

And this large building sits right beside the outdoor stadium. It is an indoor stadium for sports activities.

The words read Coliseum Closed Calca. I was confused at first but finally understood … a closed coliseum is not “closed” … it is just a coliseum that is enclosed by a roof.

Looking up at “Apu Sawasiray” from in front of the stadium.

I was fascinated by the mysterious gasoline station next to the stadium.

And as we walked further down the same street, we found this fascinating cemetery.

This is the entrance, with Mount Sawasiray in the background.

The sign (in red) reads “Gardens of Peace Cemetery – Calca”

In this part of the world, people are buried above ground, in vaults …

Some are very nice and decorated with tile and statues.

This one is beautifully maintained.

And then there are huge walls of vaults in various parts of the cemetery.

… and more.

Some of the vaults are right at ground level.

… and more.

… such a variety of burial vaults.

One last photo as we prepare to leave. I always feel deep respect for cemeteries.

Hiking Above Calca

On November 24, 2014, we went on a different hike, one taking us a few thousand feet up a lower slope of Mount Pitusiray.

There is a road that goes part of the way up the southern end of Mount Pitusiray. Jeanette and I began to walk up that road. There are great views up here.

Looking down at the town of Calca below.

It is a dirt road, lined with farms on both sides.

This one was unexpected. Regina (the shaman woman) told us that this large home (as seen from above with full zoom) is a vacation home owned by Perez Hilton. It looks absolutely huge, and gorgeous.

Calca from even higher up.

This is looking toward the southeast. The main part of Calca is in the upper left corner of the photo. If you follow a road up the far canyons, you will end up passing through the towns of Lamay, Coya, and then Pisac. It is about twenty minutes to Pisac in a minivan. The Cusco minivans first go to Pisac and then go up over the mountains, taking about an hour from Calca.

Looking to the north. My home is down there somewhere in the distant trees. This canyon goes toward Lares, up and over the beautiful Andes mountains.

Taken with a full zoom, is a photo of a tiny house being built by Regina. She is building it all by herself. It is a very tiny piece of property. The width of the property is the width of the narrow side of the house. It extends lengthwise to encompass the large garden that goes down to the bottom right corner of the photo. Land here is not cheap.

Looking down from even higher up. You can barely see that blue dome in the right center of the photo. That is Mount Sawasiray in the far distance on the right.

Jeanette, enjoying a short rest. It is very hard to hike at these altitudes.

Another view of Calca.

Looking down a very steep slope. This is actually a farm field. They grow crops on very steep inclines. If you look closely to see a blue dot in the field, that is a woman working in the field.

Looking up at one of the peaks of Mount Pitusiray in the far distance.

there are lots of little farms on this part of the mountain.

A large cactus.

This marker says we are three kilometers up the road from town (about two miles).

A large growth of San Pedro cactus, with Calca way down in the valley.

Continuing to climb.

Jeanette, standing in front of another interesting cactus.

And me, in front of the same cactus.

A bunch of eucalyptus tree branches with their little seed pods … drying by the side of the road.

The eucalyptus trees have very cute seed pods.

A field of beautiful blue flowers as we look up the steep slopes above.

In many places along the road, we passed sights like this … a plastic PVC pipe crossing over the road suspended on poles. It looks like there are fresh water springs up on the mountain, and some people run pipes down from the springs so they can have fresh water.

Another view of Calca from above. Calca is one of the larger towns in the Sacred Valley … yet there are very few foreigners here.

Looking up toward a distant peak of Mount Pitusiray.

Looking down toward my house. It is somewhere down there in the middle of the trees.

An old adobe farm house. I am not sure if it is occupied, but I would guess that it is.

After hiking for a long time, we finally turn around and begin our return trek. We are exhausted and eager to rest. We made it several miles up the road, and climbed perhaps a few thousand feet above the valley floor.

This is that same San Pedro cactus that we passed on the way up.

Jeanette, tired and walking down the mountain. That large adobe building behind appears to be unoccupied.

And another photo of that same adobe farm house.

As we near the bottom of the mountain, we pass this sign that reads: “Thanks for visiting Pitusiray. Return soon.”

A beautiful cactus in bloom with little yellow flowers.

Near the bottom, we took a shortcut, stepping off the road onto trails that are very steep.

This trail follows an irrigation ditch.

And here, the entire trail is very wet and muddy from the ditch overflowing.

A beautiful little farm house near the trail.

And another little farm house.

Lots of maize (corn) growing up here.

Interesting bark on a eucalyptus tree trunk.

Back in Calca, looking up at the peaks of Mount Pitusiray. The part that we climbed was on the left side, and we did not quite get as high as the the part of the mountain just barely above the roof of this house.

Internet … I Need Internet

My computer screen mostly failed while I was in Bolivia, and my internet at home had stopped working on the first of November … I was craving internet. So when Jeanette and I visited Pisac on November 25th, we went to a restaurant with WIFI. I could barely read my computer screen when I used a bright flashlight to highlight the screen.

Me at the restaurant, trying to use my computer. By now, it was already well into “hospice mode”.

Reunion With Shenaz

Later that afternoon, we stopped at the Hotel Qasana in Calca to have a reunion with our new friend Shenaz — she is the woman we had met on the seven-hour bus ride from Cusco to Puno.

We were so delighted that she came to meet us.

A Day In Cusco

On November 26, Jeanette and I took her suitcases to Cusco, checked into a hotel, and spent the afternoon exploring.

This is a foot bridge in Cusco, just below the street where the minivans go to and from the Sacred Valley.

On the morning of August 29, 2014, struggling with my emotions from a broken arm, my landlord’s brother, Epifanio, escorted me across this bridge to take me to the clinic where I had my cast put on.

The clinic is in a building just a block further down from the foot bridge (And only about two blocks from the collectivo/minivan stop). That tall building is the place.

It was at the Clinica Pardo where I met the orthopedic surgeon that saved the day. I will share full details in a written blog.

Inside the lobby of the clinic. I was so shaken up that morning … feeling so helpless. I am so grateful for Epifanio being with me and for how he so kindly helped me communicate. The receptionist behind that desk on the left was also profoundly loving and compassionate, as was my doctor.

Soon, Jeanette and I were taking a private English-speaking tour of the ruins of Qoricancha – a large monastery in Cusco built on top of old Inca ruins.

This is a piece of an old Inca wall with a little window in it.

Our guide told us this is original flooring in the ruins. (But I never fully trust tour guides).

The sun is spotlighting Jeanette as she touches a portion of the wall.

Part of an ancient Inca system of joining two rocks together.

They would make grooves in the rocks and fill them to keep them from shifting.

Rocks like this were fitted with other similar ones to hold them from shifting.

Examining some of the rocks with various shapes of grooves.

A courtyard inside the old monastery.

Summary

This ends the photos from Cusco … and it also ends the photos of my month-long visit with Jeanette. We spent the night at a hotel near the Plaza de Armas in Cusco and early the next morning, I escorted Jeanette to the airport, where she began her return journey back to the United States.

It was a magical month of reconnecting with an old friend, and of whirlwind visits to all of the major sites in the region. Even in a full month, we barely scratched the surface of possibilities to be explored.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

 

On November 14, 2014, Jeanette and I began our week-long journey to Lake Titicaca. It was my second and Jeanette’s first visit to that magical lake. Because of this, I limited my photos to mostly only include things I had not done before. For more photos of Lake Titicaca, you can check out my previous photo blogs.

This photo blog contains 164 photos from the trip, including all but our final day at the lake.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

Preparing To Go

With only a couple of days to prepare between our Lares Hot Springs trip and our Lake Titicaca trip, both Jeanette and I were very busy.

I am thrilled that Jeanette took this photo of me at my computer. It is the only photo I have of me using this computer, and this is one of the last times I was able to use it while fully functioning. It seems that all things electronic in my life were suddenly falling apart. My cell phone disappeared a few weeks later. My internet stopped working on the first of November (and was out for nearly 6 weeks), and my computer monitor completely failed while at Lake Titicaca … just to name a few of the mysterious events.

Of course, part of preparing for Lake Titicaca was resting and enjoying the spectacular views by the river.

But the main preparations were laundry and a little advance food preparation.

My right wrist was still quite weak since my cast had only been off for about four weeks. Jeanette was so kind to volunteer to do all of our laundry, including some of mine that had been piling up for a while (since I was unable to do much of anything during September and October).

There are no laundromats in Calca. I either have to do my laundry myself, or hire someone to wash it by hand for me. I felt very blessed for Jeanette’s assistance.

Some of our clothes hanging out to dry.

Luxury Travel

Early on the morning of November 14, 2014, we boarded a minivan from Calca to Cusco, arriving in Cusco at about 6:45 a.m.. Then, after a quick taxi ride to the bus terminal, we waited and waited. Finally, a man told us that our “Tour Peru” bus was cancelled due to mechanical problems, and that our tickets were being transferred to another bus line – one called “Transzela”. It was a luxury bus, and they gave us the best seats on the bus….

This is me in front of our luxury bus with the company “Transzela”. We each paid 40 soles for our tickets (about $14 US) for the seven-hour journey from Cusco to Puno, which is the main Peruvian city on the shores of Lake Titicaca.

Jeanette also posing in front of our bus. It is a double-decker bus with luxury seats throughout.

I stood in the aisle to get this photo of Jeanette enjoying her large leather recliner. My seat is the one just beside her. Behind me, on the right side of the bus is a single recliner.

Yes, this entire bus is filled with such plush recliners, each row having two on one side and one on the other.

And we happen to be on the front row upstairs, with a gorgeous panoramic view to enjoy.

Looking from the front of the bus toward the back. Two seats on the right and one seat on the left.

Part of the Cusco “Terminal Terrestre”  (ground terminal) where most buses come and go.

Kicking back with our feet on the little ledge at the front of the bus. If only the windows were a tiny bit cleaner. What a way to travel!!!

Our new friend Shenaz, enjoying her side of the front row. The three of us talked throughout the seven-hour journey. We never would have met if “Tour Peru” hadn’t cancelled their bus.

Passing a herd of sheep.

A cow by the side of the road.

A woman and man doing their daily chores.

A majestic old mansion along the road.

Passing over a 14,000 foot mountain pass.

Later that evening, after arriving in Puno, we found an inexpensive hostel, enjoyed a delightful meal in a restaurant near the center of Puno, and got a semi-restful sleep.

Early on the morning of November 15, 2014, we were up and catching a taxi back to the bus station by around 6:00 a.m., and soon we were on our way to the Bolivia side of Lake Titicaca.

Above is the only photo I took on this second bus trip. Our adventures at the border were exhausting. They would not let Jeanette into Bolivia without her Visa application already filled out, and they would not give us any blank forms. We had to rush into a nearby Peruvian town, find an internet cafe, print off the forms, and rush back to the border (in a little tuk-tuk) while Jeanette hurriedly filled out the forms. Luckily, our bus waited for us.

Finally, they gave Jeanette a visa and we were traveling the final fifteen minutes to the quiet little Bolivian town of Copacabana, on the shores of Lake Titicaca.

Lake Titicaca Day 1

After checking into a beach-side hotel for about $40 US per night, we decided to take advantage of the afternoon sun, and get out on the lake as soon as possible.

A local boat captain told us that we could do a short few-hour tour out to the floating islands on the Bolivia side of the lake. Having never been there, and craving a boat ride, we eagerly took the opportunity. The sky was beautiful, with plenty of sun.

It was a private tour, and this sweet gentleman and members of his extended family shared the cost with us. He was a delightful man, really fun to talk to. I think he had a crush on both of us.

Me, with the same gentleman. He insisted on getting photos with us.

Jeanette and I together, on top of the boat over open waters.

When we arrived at our destination, I was not surprised to see a group of little islands all floating on empty plastic containers and Styrofoam, connected to the shore via long floating docks.

This photo fascinated me. I had frequently noticed funny chain-link cages out in Lake Titicaca near the shoreline. I had begun to assume that these must be some type of fish farming.

Today, that suspicion was confirmed, as these little floating islands were surrounded by trout farming. If you look closely at the photo above, the netted area is filled with trout.

Some of the trout cages.

Another trout cage. You can see a huge number of trout circling around in there. We watched with fascination as a young man came to feed them. Suddenly, as he threw in food, the calm water turned into boiling water from all the feeding activity.

More of the fish.

A bird’s-eye view of the island where we stopped. It is totally artificial, made of wood and floating materials, with a tiny sprinkling of hay-like grass on top. You can see all of the fish cages scattered all over.

Looking over at a couple of the other islands.

It was a fun boat ride, including a little hike up a large rock (where I stood when taking this and the previous photos) — but the islands themselves are nothing more than a cheap knock-off imitation of the real Uros floating islands up by Puno.

The sun was close to setting as our stay on the island was coming to a close.

This fish cage had a net to cover the top.

A reed boat on a neighboring island.

Beginning our return journey to Copacabana.

Later that evening, we watched the sunset from our hotel window.

It was dark and magical.

Lake Titicaca Day 2

After getting up early on November 16, 2014, we walked down to the boat dock at 8:00 a.m., and began our second day on the lake. This would be a boat ride out to the southern end of the Island of the Sun.

Even with the warmth of a bright sun, travel on the lake can be very freezing. Both Jeanette and I were prepared.

Jeanette, all ready for the cold as we wait to leave the dock.

And me, looking all dorky, but very warm with multiple layers.

That blue and white building is our hotel (Lago Azul) … and the hill behind is called “Calvario” (Calvary Hill). We will go up there in a few days.

The left end of Calvary Hill reminds me of a large gorilla face, looking to the left.

Finally, we are underway. It is a gorgeous day.

Looking back at the shoreline.

Everyone is bundling up now.

Approaching a small passage that saves a few minutes as a shortcut. We have been traveling for about an hour now, and are only about half way to our destination.

Now back in open waters, we head for the “Island of the Sun” in the distance.

This little child didn’t look very happy.

Soon, we had a gorgeous view of the Island of the Moon with the majestic “Cordillero” mountain range in the background.

Remember that the surface of Lake Titicaca is already at around 12,400 feet above sea level. These are tall mountains.

More Island of the Moon with the Cordillero mountains in the background.

Jeanette, climbing the “Escalinatas Yumani” (Yumani Staircase). It is extremely difficult to climb at this altitude.

Similar photo, less zoom.

A young boy fills his water bottle at the water springs that pour out near the top of the rock staircase.

A Llama (or alpaca?) near the top of the staircase.

A really fluffy alpaca.

An old church that I didn’t remember seeing on my previous visit.

I absolutely love the beauty of this San Pedro cactus (Huachuma) in full glorious bloom.

A closeup of the gorgeous and huge white blossoms.

We soon walked for more than an hour to reach the top of a nearby hill where there is a beautiful lookout area. I found this heart-shaped patch of grass and took a photo for my friend Susan.

Looking from the top toward the south. You can see part of the trail that spans the length of the island.

Jeanette on top of the lookout tower.

Looking to the east toward the Island of the Moon.

Later, as we walked back toward the town of Yumani, I found this spiral. We had fun playing here.

Pack mules are critical here. The hills are so steep, and there are no roads on the island. They carry most of their supplies up the mountain on these mules.

A neat-looking wall on top of the island.

Loved this little guy. He is so fluffy from all that fur. I think this is an alpaca, and soon, that fur will be sheared off and used to make yarn.

Such a cute face.

Posing for one more photo.

I watched them building this reed boat when I was here in June. It looks complete now.

This is a traditional boat in these waters.

we took a walk along the shoreline, looking for a place to sit and meditate. We passed this place where someone was drying their laundry. I love this traditional skirt.

Finally, we are back on the boat for our return journey back to Copacabana.

I was delighted when the boat stopped at the Sun Temple on the southern end of the island. I had wanted to go up there in June, but had missed my opportunity.

I ran up to the temple and quickly took photos on our ten-minute stop. It was nothing more than a lot of tiny dark rooms. I took this with a flash, looking into one of the rooms.

Looking from the Sun Temple, back toward our boat (on the right side).

Inside of a different room. There was not much to see here, and I didn’t have time to stop and “feel” the energy.

The entrance to one of the rooms.

On my way back to the boat. Most people stayed on the boat, and I didn’t want to get left behind. When I was here in June, I stayed on the boat, and we almost left several people behind because the captain was impatient.

The bright afternoon sun glaring over the top of this little “Sun Temple” … this is the most prominent Inca structure on the island.

The half-way mark on our return boat ride.

After returning to Copacabana, we enjoyed the evening strolling around Copacabana and filling our tummies in a local restaurant.

Lake Titicaca Day 3

Early on November 17, 2014, we again met at the boat dock to embark on our second journey to the Island of the Sun. Today, we are going to the north end of the island to enjoy some beach time on the shores of Lake Titicaca.

Just over two hours into our boat ride, as we continued north along the side of the Island of the Sun, we unexpectedly found ourselves nose-diving right into an oncoming wave. We were on top of one swell headed down as another swell came toward us. Suddenly, the nose of our boat was under the oncoming wave and water rushed up over the top front of the boat, completely covering these glass windows and even splashing up on top of the boat. There are some openings around these windows, and these people sitting in the front area were drenched by water that poured through the openings.

Even Jeanette and I got a little wet. It was quite the adrenaline rush.

These stunned guys are now drying themselves off.

Finally, after about 3 hours on the lake, we land at the little village of Challapampa. We have been craving beach time, and this beautiful beach sits on the edge of Challapampa. It is real sand, but has a lot of rocks and debris mixed in as well.

It was quite cool out, so we didn’t strip down to our bathing suits, but we loved the sun anyway.

Jeanette enjoying the beach.

Some type of gull enjoying the cold waters of this high-altitude lake.

A fascinating tree just above the beach area.

Two young boys playing around a beached boat.

My little altar area.

And finally, as the time passed way too quickly, we return to our boat (the small one in the center).

This is the bathroom building on the beach.

Turning around and looking in the other direction up the beach. This is not the same beach on which we sat for a few hours. This is on the southern side of Challapampa.

A sign on the beach near the boats.

Several large pigs were freely exploring the area.

A couple of other large pigs near the water.

A very zoomed-in photo looking across the bay toward the town of Challa. I did not know it then, but I will hike to that beach over there when I return for a visa run in February.

A similar photo, taken without the zoom. Challa is not as close as it looks in the previous photo.

On the way home, after a short stop on the south end of the Island of the Sun, we hugged the shores of the mainland as we got closer to Copacabana. Here are some fish cages near the shore.

Heading south along the shores of the mainland.

Jeanette enjoying the magical journey. It was a lot warmer on our way back.

But I was still cold.

Soon, I begin to unzip my coat … feeling a tiny bit warmer.

To our surprise, this particular tour boat stopped at those fake “floating islands” that we had visited earlier.

I was standing on top of those large rocks to the right when I took photos two days ago.

After a long stop here on these floating islands, we again returned to Copacabana and enjoyed a fun relaxing evening, eating and exploring.

Lake Titicaca Day 4

Early morning, on November 18, 2014, we went for a hike to the top of “Calvario” … the Calvary Hill that I pointed out in an earlier photo. This is a Catholic Shrine, with lots of sacred symbolism for the people who worship after this tradition.

When we reached the top, we decided to light a few candles in a sheltered area where other candles were also lit.

Jeanette, lighting her candles.

My candle burning.

Still lighting them.

I decided to light some other mostly-burned candles that were already there (It felt right to do this).

Looking down from Calvary Hill, back toward the beach area of Copacabana.

Some of the shrines on top this little hill.

An unexpected Copacabana sunset.

We had planned to cross the border and go back to Puno, on the Peru side today. Our bus was schedule to leave at 1:00 p.m., but as we arrived at the little travel agency that sold us the tickets, we were informed that there was a strike on the Peru side, before Puno, and that the roads were barricaded and manned with people who would throw rocks and glass at the bus if it tried to pass.

In December, I experienced a similar strike right in Calca, in front of my own house, where barricades were built. At the time on Nov 18, I had no idea what was happening. It was some labor dispute, and is apparently quite common in Peru.

So, to make a long story short, we returned to our hotel, after having already checked out, and we checked in again, making plans to stay for two more days.

Another sunset photo on this unexpected extended stay.

Lake Titicaca Day 5

Not sure about what we wanted to do, we decided to take another tour to the south end of the Island of the Sun – but it was a tour that would first take us to the Island of the Moon. I had tried to make it to the Island of the Moon in June, but the tour agencies were not going to the Island of the Moon then because of low tourist volume.

So, at 8:30 a.m. on November 19, 2014, we are again on board yet-another boat.

Jeanette, enjoying the blissful ride.

After a two hour journey and a stop at the Island of the Sun to drop off passengers, our boat is finally headed toward the Island of the moon (in the distance).

Approaching the north end of the Island of the Moon (this is taken with a large zoom).

Looking back at the Island of the Sun.

Getting closer … with less zoom.

Going around the north end of the island.

Zoomed-in view of the north end.

Near the shore, the water was extremely clear. These rocks are quite deep.

Traveling south along the eastern shores of the Island of the Moon.

Looking east toward the Cordillero mountains (big zoom).

A view of ancient temples on the Island of the Moon, taken from the boat with a full zoom.

Approaching the boat dock.

Getting closer.

The dock here has an interesting “roll out” extension.

A sign for the “Temple of the Virgins” … the Island of the Moon is the smaller and feminine partner of the masculine Island of the sun.

Approaching the Temple of the Virgins on foot.

Another side of the temple complex.

Jeanette, preparing to enter.

Jeanette, posing inside.

One of the walls.

A different perspective of the same.

A little altar that someone left in a small room.

More offerings left in a small alcove.

Entrance to the room where the altars are placed.

Jeanette, enjoying the view and the magical energy here.

We loved the energy of this island and stayed here for as long as we could. Unfortunately the boat captain only let us stay for one hour.

The wall on the other end, partially restored with a little adobe clay.

Same wall, different perspective.

Looking across toward the first wall.

Jeanette enjoying her time on that little bench.

Me in front of the second wall.

Another one with me in it.

I eventually set up my own meditation space in the middle of the ruins, across the field from Jeanette.

Finally, we reluctantly had to leave. This is a view of the Cordilleros in the distance, with a little hut on the mountainside (upper right).

Another sign that we passed on the way out.

This wooden sign reads “Path to the community Warmi-Thakhi”

A sign marking the exit path back to the boat.

Walking back toward the dock.

I had not seen this before. It is an Inca Wall below the ruins that we visited.

Down the steps to the boat.

Some cacti along the trail down to the boat. That tall tree-like plant on the right side of the trail is a cactus.

A closeup of that tall tree-like cactus.

Looking back at the dock as we begin to float away.

As we look toward the north end of the island, we are surprised to see this mirage effect of the sky covering parts of the land.

Another image of the mirage effect.

After a short ride, we are now approaching the Island of the Sun.

Getting closer to Yumani. I have never seen it from this angle.

And even closer.

Today, that traditional reed boat was tied up at the main docks.

Jeanette and I sat on this rocky beach to meditate and wait for the boat that would take us back to Copacabana.

Jeanette in her own meditative space.

That reed boat taking off for an adventure.

Looking out over the water toward the Island of the Moon.

And zooming in for another photo of the Cordillero range.

Taking the traditional reed boat out for a spin.

And another perspective.

This cloud above the Cordilleros looked like a dog facing to the right with its mouth open.

Jeanette took this silhouette photo of me as we headed back to Copacabana.

And another one, with the afternoon sun glowing brilliantly at my back.

This concludes “Part 1” of the photos from our Lake Titicaca Trip. The next photo post will document the final day of this trip, plus more adventures back in Calca and Cusco.

I hope you enjoyed taking the journey with us.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

In early November 2014, both before and after visiting Machu Picchu, Jeanette and I did a great deal of hiking and exploring in the area, including hikes along the river behind my house, hikes into the lower part of Mount Pitusiray above my house, and a breathtaking trip across the tops of the Andes to the Hot Springs of Lares.

This photo blog contains 156 photos from those various activities.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

Mount Pitusiray

The main part of  Calca (where I live) is stated by Wikipedia as being 2928 meters above sea level, or 9606 feet above sea level. I am guessing that my house is a few hundred feet higher than that, since I am part way up the canyon from the main portion of Calca — so my own magical playground is just under 10,000 feet in altitude.

Towering above my back yard is Mount Pitusiray, which according to Wikipedia is 5800 meters above sea level, or 19,028 feet above sea level. The only thing that stands between me and this beautiful mountain is a few farms on the lower slopes.

The local Quechua people refer to these majestic mountains as Apus, which literally translated means “mountain spirits”. Pitusiray is one of the more prominent Apus in the area, rising more than 9000 feet above my back yard.

The building directly at the end of this dirt road is my home. I live on the bottom floor of this structure, and my landlord (Abelardo) lives upstairs for about half of the year (he travels back and forth to Lima every couple of months).

There are three windows and a door on the bottom level. My bedroom window is the middle window. The mountain directly behind and above the house is Pitusiray.

Similar photo … taken from a little further up the road, giving a more panoramic view of my house and the mountains behind. Those rugged peaks way up in the background are the ones that stretch above 19000 feet.

Again, further up the road away from my house. To my left are fields filled with “maize” or the local corn. The road I live on is a little canyon road that leads from Calca up toward the mountains. It is lined on both sides by houses, but behind the houses on both sides are farm fields.

The road I am walking on right now loops around those fields and leads down to the east side of Calca, where I often go to the market.

Standing in the same spot, I turn to look toward the southeast. Across the fields of young maize is the main town of Calca. That “blue dome” in the left-center background is an indoor sports arena.

You can see from this photo, that where I am is indeed several hundred feet higher than the main portion of Calca.

Hiking Along The River

On November 8, 2014, Jeanette and I went for a hike along the river that forms the boundary to my back yard — only we went on the other side of the river.

I had hiked there before, but did not have my camera with me. I was eager to hike the trail again so that I could capture a few photos.

This is the corn field (maize field) directly across the river from my house. My house is hidden behind the trees in the very center of this photo.

It was right about here (in mid August) while I was taking my first hike on this side of the river, that my neighbor insisted I come into the field and visit with him and his family as they worked the corn field.

This zoomed-in photo (taken from the same spot) shows my “river playground” area on the far side of the river, right in the center of the photo.

And in this zoomed-in photo, you can barely see the upper level of my house (left center) and my kitchen (blue-green paint, right of center, between the tall eucalyptus trees).

Looking back toward my house from a little further up the trail.

The trail here doubles as a path for a small irrigation ditch that splits off from the river further upstream. This is also a path that leads to peoples’ homes. There are several homes up here that have absolutely no road access.

Fields further up the trail.

Looking at the mountains to the east. A small fire burns up near the ridge.

A huge rock right in the middle of someone’s freshly plowed field.

Looking across the valley at some homes that line the main road that leads further up the canyon. This road eventually climbs way up over the tops of the Andes. Jeanette and I will experience this road first hand in just a few days…

Continuing up the trail, still following an irrigation ditch.

Another beautiful field …

An interesting cactus.

Another very green freshly planted field.

A field with more mature potato plants.

Jeanette exploring around an old abandoned adobe structure.

After going as far as the trail would let us, we crossed a bridge and began to hike back toward Calca on the main road. This huge bull greeted us from the back of a typical truck.

A view during our return trek.

A view perhaps a mile above my house.

Maize (corn) drying in the sun.

This two story home was so far below the road, so that the second floor opens out onto the road.

A beautiful little house and field between the river and the road.

This little “ashram” is only a few hundred yards up the road from my house. I had no idea it was here until someone told me about it in September.

Later that same day, Jeanette and I sat in my river playground and watched my neighbor plow another field of corn (the one directly across from the bridge).

There he is again in his red and black shirt with vertical stripes.

One of my neighbor girls helping out.

These bulls have some type of net around their mouth – maybe to keep them from eating the corn as they walk through it.

Same photo with less zoom.

My neighbor riding the plow behind the bulls.

Drive To Lares Hot Springs

On November 10, 2014, Jeanette and I got up early and walked down to the Calca market, where we found a minivan waiting to take us on a magical journey up over the mountains to Lares Hot Springs.

For the grand sum of 10 soles each (about $3.50 US) we rode over the top of the Andes mountains on very narrow roads, many of which were unpaved.

The highest point of the pass is over 14,600 feet above sea level.

In this photo we are already very high up in the Andes mountains. If you look closely, you can see the road on the far side of the valley, continuing in a steep slope up the far mountain.

A closer look at the road across the valley as it climbs up those very tall mountains. I would guess we are already somewhere around 13,000 feet above sea level at this point.

The highest mountain pass that we traverse is up at the low spot of that ridge above.

A similar photo, a tiny bit closer.

Zig-zagging along a narrow unpaved road, continuing beyond that little peak on the right.

More beautiful scenery as we just keep climbing.

If you look closely, you can see a large herd of either alpacas or llamas right in the center of the photo, crossing over the road.

Looking out the minivan window back down toward the valley from whence we came. I found it very hard to get good photos from where I was sitting. I was on the very back row of the minivan, and NOT at a window. All of my photos were taken with a zoom through dirty glass.

Still climbing. There are more alpacas / llamas crossing the road at right center.

Looking down as we continue climbing. There is a very marshy area here atop this mountain. We have to be at least close to 14,000 feet by now.

And the road just keeps going up, up, up.

One of the many alpacas (or llamas) beside the road.

And more of them. These look more like alpacas to me.

Looking back down at the road below as we near a ridge above. Most of that winding road is unpaved.

Finally, we cross over the highest mountain pass that I have ever crossed.

I just zoomed in on this sign and discovered that it says that this pass is called “Abra de Lares” and that we are at 4,461 meters above sea level, which is 14,635 feet above sea level — more than 600 feet higher than Pikes Peak in Colorado.

We now begin our decent to the other side of the Andes mountains. The narrow road here is paved, and just barely wide enough for two cars to pass by each other if they are very careful.

Looking at the window at a lower portion of the road as we zig and zag, back and forth down the switchbacks.

Looking at some really tall snow-capped peaks in the distance.

… and at another rugged snow-capped peak that is much closer (right in the center of the photo, way beyond the nearer ridges.

Looking down the valley as we continue rapidly downhill.

Machu Picchu is off in that direction, perhaps 30 or 40 miles in the distance.

More of the road below, continuing to descend.

It is really quite beautiful up here, at around 14,000 feet.

But not much grows up here at this altitude. Lots of sheep and llamas and alpacas … lots of grass … and mostly potatoes in the cultivated farms.

The brown patches right of center are freshly plowed fields. I can only assume that they are probably planted with potatoes.

You have to enlarge this photo to really see the details. This is cute little farm house surrounded by rock walls.

Another little settlement high up in these Andes mountains. It is gorgeous here.

A large herd of sheep grazing on the yummy grass.

Another farm house and what appears to be a large cultivated field.

A beautiful valley below.

A large cultivated field in the valley below … likely potatoes. There are upwards of 30 different varieties of potatoes in Peru, and potatoes are a main staple for people that live at these altitudes.

Looking across the valley at the interesting texture of the bushy plants growing there.

Eventually, we pass through a small town.

The sign reads “Municipality of Lares” … but here in peru, a municipality includes a larger area then just one town …

We continue down the valley, beginning to follow a little river. At times we are quite high above the river, on a narrow road, zooming around sharp curves with steep drop-offs to the river below.

A fascinating delay … we were stopped on a narrow road that was hardly able to accommodate a passing vehicle, while construction equipment teetered by the edge, trying to maintain the road we are on.

A zoomed-in look at the distant valley below as we continue to wait for construction. We are actually quite high up on a cliff at the spot where we are waiting.

The road equipment finally backs away and gives us just barely enough room to pass by, with a steep drop on our right.

Taken just after passing through the construction. There is not much room for reckless driving on this road…

A little town coming up …

Finally, after more than two hours on these beautiful, narrow, mountain roads, and after climbing over a 14,635 foot mountain pass, we arrive in the little town of Lares. It is at about 10,500 feet above sea level.

It looks like we arriving on market day.

The local people are out shopping in the market. I love their beautiful traditional clothing.

Lares Day 1

After arriving in Lares, Jeanette and I asked for directions and began walking up a dirt road that ascends a nearby canyon. After about 30 minutes we arrived at the hot springs area. When we saw a little hostel, we quickly checked in, only to discover that the place we had really intended to stay was just a little further ahead, inside the fence of the hot springs area. Reluctantly, we checked out of the first hostel, paid the woman a little extra for her trouble, and moved our belongings to our actual resting place for the next two nights.

This is the inside of our room. It cost us a total of 50 soles per night (about $17 US).

We brought all of our own food with us, and stored much of it on this convenient little table and shelf. Our bathroom is through that door on the left.

Our room has a balcony, and this is the view from that balcony. The hot springs are just below, in the center of the photo.

Looking from our balcony across the valley.

Looking at our room from down below. We are in the room with the balcony on the left, with the pink towel hanging on the railing.

Looking down at a few of the hot springs pools. The water looks very dirty, but this is just the natural color of the spring water. The furthest pool is barely tolerable as far as heat. The middle two rectangular pools are extremely hot (I could not stay in them) … and the near round pool was just perfect for temperature.

I thought that this sign on the women’s dressing room was quite unique. We didn’t need to use the dressing room because we had our own little hostel room inside the hot springs area.

A look at the lower two pools. The near round one is cold, and the large rectangular pool was my favorite … warm temperature, but not too not.

A sign by the entrance gate. The gate was operated by an older gentleman that had very poor eyesight. I had to help him change the date on his little ink stamp because he could not read the numbers. The sign says that rooms are 50 soles and camping is 7 soles. .. and that the gate is open from 4:00 am till 10 pm, from Monday to Sunday (7 days per week).

This is the first little hostel where we accidentally checked in for about a half hour. It is cute, but the rooms were dark and tiny. We love our new spot.

Beautiful patterns on a rock where the hot waters flows.

Inside a tiny cave just before the hot springs entrance.

Another photo in the tiny cave.

And another …

Looking down the canyon from near the cave entrance.

A pile of bones in a little rock area up on the side of the cliff. I hiked up there by myself and it was very treacherous. The lady at our hostel told us there was a mummy somewhere up here. I never found the mummy, and decided to turn around because the trail was too dangerous. It was a very loose dirt on the side of a very steep hill, with no proper hand holds.

Looking inside one crevasse on my little solo hike.

Looking down on part of that trail. This is one of the better, more stable parts of the trail. The drop off on the left is very steep.

A less-maintained part of the trail, with very slippery loose dirt and rocks.

A sign inside the hot springs. I thought the translations were interesting. I especially like the “use only bikini” rule. I can only imagine the men wearing a bikini.

Beautiful flowers around the inside of the hot springs area.

By the lower pools, looking over the edge at the river flowing down from above.

From the same location, looking back up toward our room high above.

Jeanette, standing on the other side of the river.

And a photo of me, also on the other side of the river.

Yet another one of me.

A limestone stalagmite formed where the hot spring water empties into the river below.

Looking upstream along the river.

With lots of zoom, looking back toward our room as seen from the river.

Jeanette, enjoying the beautiful mountain scenery.

Looking down at the hot springs area from a higher vantage point on the other side … using lots of zoom.

More beautiful flowers in the area.

A group of hikers leaving Lares Hot Springs on their way toward Machu Picchu. They were hiking right into a massive rainstorm.

During our time at Lares, we saw several such groups begin hiking on this trail. This is not the main Inca Trail … but is a popular hike across the Andes mountains … a hike enjoyed by trekkers that cannot afford the Inca Trail, or who did not reserve in advance … a hike that ends up somewhere in the Urubamba area on the other side of the mountains. From there, they are transported to Machu Picchu like normal tourists.

More gorgeous flowers around the hot springs.

And more flowers….

I love these …

This is a view of the storm that those hikers were walking into. I was very grateful that I was not walking into those clouds. There was lots of thunder and lightning for a while.

Lares Day 2

After our first night in Lares, we hiked back to the town to meet our friend Maria who was going to join us for our second night. She ended up renting the other room right next to us.

While in town, I saw this sign saying that Lares (the town part) is at 3,222 meters above sea level, or 10,570 feet above sea level. I am guessing that the hot springs area is closer to 11, 500 feet above sea level.

One of the small streets in the town of Lares.

And another.

The main town center area of Lares. This is where the market was yesterday. Today, there are only a few miscellaneous vendors, none of them selling the fruits and vegetables we had hoped to find.

A different view in the center of town. That building on the left is the government offices.

While waiting for Maria’s bus to arrive, we saw this crate filled with chickens.

After joining up with Maria, we did a little shopping. I bought some yummy  honey, which is said to be the best in the area. Then we hiked back up the canyon to the hot springs and enjoyed the rest of the day hanging out together, with part of that time in the  hot springs.

Lares Day 3

After our second night in Lares, Jeanette, Maria, and I decided to go on a little morning hike up the canyon on the other side of the river … following the path that the hikers all take.

In this photo, I am in the lead, with Maria and Jeanette climbing the trail below me.

Looking from the trail back down toward the hot springs far below.

Zooming in on the hot springs below.

Taking a rest. It is hard to hike at nearly 12,000 feet above sea level.

A view from the trail, looking up this gorgeous valley.

Zooming in on the beautiful valley below.

Maria and Jeanette enjoying the magical scenery.

Me and Maria, in a similar pose.

Jeanette and I posing in front of the valley below.

Maria taking a break in the very hot sun. When at full strength, the sun can really burn at this altitude.

An interesting cube-like rock in a little meadow where we rested.

We spent considerable time resting and meditating in this spot.

Just below the meadow above, there is a little stream with very clear and cold mountain water flowing by. I spent a while exploring the stream. My feet were freezing in this photo.

Jeanette also enjoying the stream.

A look up the canyon as seen from our little meditation meadow.

Jeanette, walking near the tiny stream.

Back resting and meditating in the meadow.

I hiked up the side of the hill, just a little bit. The previous photo, and this one, were both taken from this same spot. The previous one is with a large zoom. If you look closely in this photo, you can still see Jeanette and Maria up against/on the rock at the upper side of the meadow.

Looking at a mountain on the far side of the valley (lots of zoom here).

Finally, Jeanette and I leave to go catch a minivan back to Calca. Maria remains behind to enjoy the solitude for a little longer.

Drive From Lares To Calca

At around 1:00 p.m., on November 12, 2014, Jeanette and I climbed into our seats in a little minivan, and we began our return journey back over the Andes mountains, returning to Calca. We were very tired, and also very eager to begin preparing for an upcoming trip to Lake Titicaca.

Looking out my window at the edge of the road and the steep drop off to the valley below. We were zooming around this narrow road at quite high speeds … and I am on the left side of the minivan.

Another similar photo as we race up the road.

And another looking almost straight down at the river far below. you can barely see the whitewater of the river in the lower left area of the photo.

The side of the road is not quite as steep here. You can see that the road is paved, but barely wide enough to squeeze a second car past us in the opposite direction.

We had to really slow down to pass by this oncoming minivan.

As we climbed higher into these gorgeous Andes mountains, it began to rain.

And then, as I gazed into the magical valley below, I was surprised to see something white. It was snowing.

The snow was building up on these farms and fields below. It was actually more of an icy snow, even hail at times.

At this point we are nearing the top of the pass, at over 14,000 feet.

Looking down and out the window at a small river running across the road.

And a beautiful view of a snow-capped peak towering above us.

It was getting foggy, but this peak is gorgeous.

Looking down and back toward Lares as we near the top of the pass.

Another view of the majestic snow-capped mountains towering above the 14,665 foot mountain pass.

Now going down the other side of the pass on unpaved narrow roads.

A look at the valley below. You can see the road down there. Soon we will be on it.

Eventually, we were stuck at a construction block. They were not paving the road. They were actually just spraying it with oil and then covering the oil with sand. we sat here for at least a half hour.

Taking advantage of the resting time, our driver got out and checked behind the front left tire. I can only assume he was checking the brakes.

Suddenly, as we continue to wait, a huge hail storm bursts from the dark clouds above.

Eventually, we are allowed to move again. You can see how narrow this road is by looking at how that truck fills it completely.

You can see that the hail and rain have made the road very wet.

About an hour later, we finally arrive back in Calca, happy and excited, yet also very tired.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

On November 2, 2014, I took on the role of tour guide for my dear friend Jeanette as we left Calca to spend two magical days exploring the wonderland of Machu Picchu.

This blog contains 153 photos documenting our magical adventure. It was my second time visiting these sacred ruins, so I limited my photos mostly to things I had never seen or done before. See my previous photo posts if you wish to see other parts of this special Inca sanctuary.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

Los Jardines De Mandor

Jeanette and I took two public minivans to first travel from Calca to Urubamba, and then from Urubamba to Ollantaytambo. We arrived in plenty of time to catch a quick breakfast before boarding our tourist train — the “vistadome” — that would take us winding along the river for the final two hour journey to Aguas Calientes. Once we checked in to our hostel, we set off on our first adventure – an afternoon exploring the valley at the base of Machu Picchu.

“The Gardens of Mandor” is a magical place that I stumbled upon during my previous visit to Machu Picchu. It is a beautiful piece of paradise nestled in the valley below the ruins. To get there, you must walk for about an hour (more or less depending on your fitness level) following train tracks that lead around the base of Huayna Picchu, which is the famous mountain seen in the background of most traditional photos of Machu Picchu.

This first group of 34 photos documents our magical hike.

After about a half hour on the main dirt road that buses use to get to the base of Machu Picchu mountain, we split off the road and began to follow the train tracks.

I was very surprised to look up at the top of the mountain (this image is full zoom) and notice that you can actually see the bottom edge of Machu Picchu way up high on the ridge above.

This is a picture of Huayna Picchu as seen from below. Again, this is the famous mountain behind Machu Picchu in all the photos. It looks very different from this angle. In June when I was here, I had no idea what I was looking at.

Another view of Huayna Picchu as seen from the train tracks below. Our destination is around on the back side of this mountain.

We walked along these train tracks. It is a gorgeous hike.

A cute little butterfly says hello.

Another bottoms-up view of Huayna Picchu. You can barely see the edge of Machu Picchu along the left end of the lower ridge.

Beautiful foliage along the trail.

As we keep walking around the base, this is Huayna Picchu from a different angle.

After walking for more than an hour in occasional misty rain, we finally arrived at the entrance. There are no roads that lead here.

The top of the sign reads “Welcome to the Gardens of Mandor. A conservation project of wild habitat.” The rest of the sign has English translations on the right side.

As we begin to walk into Mandor, this is a glance back at the mountains across the valley. Huayna Picchu is on the left, not seen in this photo.

Looking toward the mountains up the trail on which we are hiking.

The trail is lined with gorgeous flowers …

… and trees. This area is on the upper end of the Amazon rainforest, and is kind of a buffer zone between the jungle and the mountains.

Crossing the stream. A waterfall feeds it from above.

More of the stream.

And more flowers.

The back side of Huayna Picchu as seen from the trail.

Machu Picchu is on the other side of this mountain now. When I was there the first time, I hiked from Machu Picchu to the top of this mountain, and then spent an extra two hours hiking the long way back, which led down this back side of the mountain, along those cliffs, back around to the right, and then back up into Machu Picchu.

With my friend Jeanette.

After more than thirty minutes, we finally reached the first waterfall. It is tall and thin, but gorgeous in person.

Perhaps twenty minutes later, we reached the main falls. It is breathtaking and tropical – yet very cold when you get down below where the mist is spraying. If you look at the large rocks, they are all very wet from the mist.

Another image of the same.

Jeanette, posing near the falls.

And another with the falls showing.

Me, hiking down the steps to get closer.

Me, posing near the base of the falls.

And me, stumbling around the large, wet boulders.

The lighting is not so good … Jeanette and I along the trail.

Slightly better … click on the image if you want to see my whole face.

A view hiking back down the trail.

Same as previous photo, only zoomed in.

Beautiful flowers. I believe they are “Birds of Paradise”.

More floral magic.

Jeanette, posing with the young man who guards the entrance to the trail (and who charges 10 soles each to use it) (10 soles is about $3.50 US).

Hiking back toward Aguas Calientes.

Machu Picchu Day 1

After the exhausting hike, a so-so dinner, and a sketchy sleep, interrupted by train noises, Jeanette and I got up at 4:30 a.m., and at 5:15 a.m. we were in line to catch a bus to the top of Machu Picchu. We arrived at the top at just before 6:00 a.m..

This is the first photo I took. As we walked into the park it was misty and foggy, and I just happened to see this magical spider web. The lighting was perfect to capture the special effects.

I wasn’t going to take a lot more photos from this vantage point, but when I saw the view and the way the magical mystical clouds enhanced the perfect lighting of a rising sun, I couldn’t resist.

Another incredible image that captures the energy of the experience.

I liked this one so much that I used it as my Facebook cover photo.

Almost the same, and just as magical.

I literally love the cloud effects…

As we eventually headed down to the main Inca Gate, the fog was again closing in, and the sun was just waiting to surprise us from above. We were not at all prepared for what happened next. It was magic, magic, magic.

Suddenly, I looked down to my left, in the foggy valley below. The sun was directly behind me, just beginning to radiate from above.

I could not believe what I was seeing. It was a circular rainbow, with my own personal shadow right in the middle. When I moved my arms, I could see them move in the shadow.

Jeanette was just above me on a ledge, amazed by her own experience of her very own personal circular rainbow with shadow.

It was the perfect optical setup, and each one of us could only see our own version of the rainbow and shadow.

Zooming in a bit, you can see more details. If you click on the image to see a high-definition image, you can see the colors a little better, and even see my arms in the shadow.

And with a full zoom, this is what I got. It was so much more incredible to actually be there. I used this one as a Facebook profile photo.

Looking over to the right side, the sun rising over the mountains to the east gave this incredible lighting effects.

This little bug was gorgeous in the morning light.

More of the magic with the morning sun, the shadows, and the clouds.

Looking back up toward the caretaker’s hut at the top.

Same photo with a little zoom.

Looking toward the main part of the ruins with Huayna Picchu in the background. The fog still fills the valley to the left.

Zoomed in from the same spot, capturing the ruins and the shorter mountain to the left.

Later, after the fog cleared … Jeanette looking into the valley below … the same place where the rainbows were earlier.

Huayna Picchu as seen from above.

From the Huayna Picchu side of the ruins, looking back at Machu Picchu Mountain, and the caretaker’s hut.

As the sun got hotter, we took a meditation break to enjoy the shade and magical views.

I handed my camera to Jeanette.

Looking up at Huayna Picchu, pondering my hike to the top last June. It looks very different from how it looks when seen from the valley floor.

The trail in the middle leads back to the main entrance.

Not everyone is prepared for hiking at this altitude. I was surprised to see an emergency crew carrying someone down on a stretcher.

A Dartura tree, like the one in my back yard. The sign on the tree gives the local names. The first name is the same as the one my landlord told me. The sign is tiny, and barely visible in this thumbnail image, but it lists names as “Floripondio Candido”, “Campacho Rosado” and “Brugniansia Candida”. This is a very magical plant that can be quite dangerous if used improperly.

Jeanette, sitting on a tiny rock protruding from the wall.

We hiked above the caretaker’s hut and found a beautiful grassy spot, with shade, from where we could meditate and enjoy the energy of this majestic sanctuary.

Jeanette already has her shoes off, enjoying the magical view.

A little orange orchid sticks up over the wall where I am sitting.

She actually had a cell phone signal up here.

A little hawk kept flying around. I managed to get an incredibly clear focus on it with this photo. You need to click on the photo if you want to see it better.

A beautiful view.

A different perspective on our little resting place.

Later, we hiked to the Inca Bridge. I took lots of photos on my previous visit, so did not take many this time. The lower-left part of the photo catches the very treacherous rock bridge that leads to a trail that traverses this cliff. The trail and bridge are closed now.

A closeup of the Inca Bridge.

A lizard guarding the trail.

After the hike, we returned to our magical resting spot.

Looking down the mountain on the left (west) side of the ruins, I zoomed in completely to see what was happening down there, and you can see a man standing at the entrance to a small cave.

Suddenly, Jeanette and I saw a herd of Alpaca (Llamas?) heading right for us. Our presence did not deter them. They came right up and walked all around, looking for something good to eat. I am guessing that tourists may have given them food in the past.

This one turned a hind side to my face (just a foot away) as he foraged in the grass.

This one came between us and I got a photo of Jeanette beneath its legs.

And another closeup. She is taking a photo of me taking a photo of her.

These guys gave us no privacy at all. He is getting up close and personal.

I think he wants a kiss.

Jeanette took this one of me with her camera. We were surrounded by our new friends.

And another with Jeanette’s camera. I love my smile in this one. We were both just giggling.

Jeanette taking a photo of me taking a photo of her (one from earlier).

And another one that I really love.

Me, with more new friends.

And another.

Not sure what I was doing with my hat, but I love the photo.

And another.

A magical view with beautiful colors.

More of the beautiful orange flowers.

A look at the terraces below where we were sitting.

This one is a unique view of the terraces below the Caretaker’s hut. That is Machu Picchu Mountain in the background. We will hike part way up that mountain tomorrow.

Our friend the hawk came back for another magical photo op (with full zoom).

With the sun now disappearing to the west, a view of the main part of the ruins with Huayna Picchu in the background.

And a view of Huayna Picchu with the lower part of the ruins on the eastern side. We are now on our way back to the main gate, feeling tired and hungry.

Eating an early dinner in Aguas Calientes.

Machu Picchu Day 2

Early on November 4, 2014, we repeated our morning ritual and were again at the bus stop just after 5:15 a.m., and again inside the Machu Picchu ruins by 6:00 a.m..

It was much more foggy today, and we had a strong desire to hike up to the Sun Gate (IntiPunku), so we began hiking with full trust that the fog would clear. It briefly parted for a few minutes as we took these early photos looking back down the trail toward the ruins.

We found an awesome rock ledge for a short break.

Another awesome zoomed-in view from far above.

No zoom … me with Machu Picchu nestled in by clouds, far below.

Jeanette, enjoying a breather … she is a hiker in Utah, but was fully unprepared for the low oxygen effects at this high altitude.

The clouds moved back in as we continued up the trail.

A brief clearing in the clouds gave us a birds-eye view of the valley leading back to Aguas Calientes.

More of the valley looking toward Machu Picchu. You can barely see a bit of the ruins just below the clouds. And you can see the zig-zagging road going up the mountain just above the trail in the foreground.

When we reached the top, we both sat up there on the terraces in the far back. You can barely see Jeanette still up there in her green sweater. We were both exhausted. I had no idea that the hike was all the way to the top of the ridge. I thought it was only part way up.

I zoomed in to get Jeanette up there on the highest terrace.

The Quechua name for “Sun Gate” is Intipunku.

This is looking back down the trail that we just climbed. Machu Picchu is way down there in the thick fog, completely invisible right now.

Part of the fort-like structure up here at the Sun Gate. On the other side of this structure is a beautiful view of the valley to the south. I’m not sure, but I believe that on the equinox, the sun first shines on Machu Picchu through this low spot in the ridge above.

Another photo with Jeanette still enjoying the terrace above.

The steps leading up there don’t look all that scary, but they are very steep and narrow, with no hand rails. It is much different being there in person.

Jeanette took this photo of me while she sat on the terrace above. I am the one in the lower left center, with my arms outstretched in a wide “V”, wearing a grey sweatshirt and purple blouse.

Many of the people we talked to up on top were tired of waiting for the fog to clear, and actually left because they had other places to be. I just knew it would clear … and soon it began to do just that. Finally, at 8:15 a.m., we can see the road leading up the  mountain to Machu Picchu, but not quite the ruins themselves.

A few seconds later, you can start to see the ruins (the lighter colored portion, upper center).

A zoomed in photo of the same. You have to enlarge the photo to see any detail.

And finally, we can see part of the trail leading back down to the valley.

Meanwhile, looking at the valley on the other side of the mountain (the sun gate is on a ridge), you can see a lot further.

And another without the foreground structures.

Yeah … at 8:26 a.m. the fog is really beginning to lift, giving glimpses of the gorgeous ruins far below. This photo has some zoom.

This photo is without zoom, and if you look closely you can see that white area in the middle — that is the ruins.

With the fog still partially clouding the view, I started playing with various foregrounds — feeling a little artistic.

A beautiful photo (with fog) of Huayna Picchu mountain towering over Machu Picchu (left center) … enlarge the photo for better visibility.

Half way up the trail is this small set of ruins. This photo is taken with a large zoom. When we started hiking from below, I thought this was the Sun Gate.

This photo is taken from the same angle, without the zoom.

Another beautiful view of the ruins and Huayna Picchu, with a little less haziness.

Looking from the trail toward the valley below.

A gorgeous little mushroom alongside the trail.

And a magical-looking plant.

We take a rest at the structure below (the one from previous photos that is about half-way back down the mountain).

If you see the little peak left of middle, then the “v-like” notch before the mountain goes up higher to the right, the “Sun Gate” is at the bottom of that “v-like notch”.

A zoomed-in photo of the same.

As rays of sun begin to reach the ruins, I captured another beautiful image of the ruins below.

And for my friend Susan, a heart-shaped rock on the trail. (Susan, please tell me if you see this).

Looking down the valley toward Aguas Calientes far below.

The trail leading down the mountain. It was very well maintained.

When I bought our tickets in Cusco, I paid a few dollars extra for the right to be part of the group allowed to climb the taller Machu Picchu Mountain to the south of the ruins.

Jeanette and I were exhausted, but after we got back down to the ruins, we decided to give it a try.

The trail back up this other mountain was well maintained, but very steep, and we had to frequently stop to take deep breaths.

Jeanette, pausing below me.

In this one, you can see the peak of Huayna Picchu in the background.

An absolutely gorgeous view of Machu Picchu below.

Another view of the ruins below from a different perspective. We are getting quite high here. In fact, If I remember right, Jeanette stopped a few hundred feet down the trail where there was a nice view. I kept going for fifteen minutes by myself just to scout out the views. I too decided to turn around. I was so exhausted and could hardly breathe.

A gorgeous zoomed-in view of Huayna Picchu. I cannot believe I climbed that left face back in June … and then back down the right rear, around the back, and back up the lower left side.

Zoomed-in view looking back at the caretaker’s hut (bottom right) and a little more of the ruins below.

Zoomed-in view of the lower ruins on the eastern side.

Zoomed-in view of the southern side of the ruins, with the beginning of the Huayna Picchu trail going off into the upper right corner.

No zoom here. The previous several photos were taken from here. This is where Jeanette stopped to rest, and exactly how I found her when I returned. That lighter colored area just up and right of center is Machu Picchu.

Another gorgeous view of the ruins below as we are walking back down the mountain. We stopped about half way up Machu Picchu Mountain.

And another beautiful view of the ruins below. You have to enlarge to get a real perspective. It is still a little hazy too.

And another, a little closer.

With full zoom, I spotted this little cell-phone tower on a nearby hill.

As we finally reached the check point that guards the entrance to the trail (down near the bottom) I grabbed my camera to get a quick photo of our names. I signed slot number 73 and Jeanette signed slot number 74 … Fun to get this photo.

We were so exhausted by this point that we could hardly stand up or even move our feet.

As we leave the trail behind, we step out to a beautiful grassy meadow. That is the caretaker’s hut in the left-center foreground … and of course Huana Picchu, in all its glory, behind on the right side.

And finally, we are back at our favorite view area (resting site), enjoying a chance to take our shoes off while recovering.

This photo (with lots of zoom) is looking back at the “v” where the Sun Gate is located.

And this one is looking up at the Machu Picchu Mountain. We made it about half way up to the top.

Later that evening, back in Aguas Calientes, we were blessed with a magical view of the rising full moon.

And it was beautiful.

Returning Home

Early on November 5, 2014, we caught a return train that took us back to Ollantambo. We explored for a few minutes, but were so tired we decided to move quickly back to Calca, repeating our earlier journey with two mini-van “collectivos”, one to Urubamba and one the rest of the way to Calca.

As I searched Jeanette’s photos, I found this one photo that she took on that morning, near the Inca ruins in Ollantaytambo. I love it so much that I decided to post it as well. You have to click on the thumbnail image to see my face. I actually have my hair combed LOL. I stopped wearing makeup long ago, and never carry a brush with me on windy days.

This concludes the photos my my trip to Machu Picchu with Jeanette. I hope you enjoyed them.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

I haven’t posted anything on my blog since August 19, 2014. It has been a wonderful break for me, one in which I focused primarily on my own personal healing journey. I needed the writing pause after more than five years of non-stop blogging. But now, I again feel motivated to fill in the blanks, and to at least summarize the magical events that have transpired in my journey of the last seven months.

But first, before I begin writing again, I want to catch up on a huge number of photos. Yesterday I sorted, organized, and labeled them, and last night I uploaded 951 photos that just want to be shared.

This post will be a short one, containing only 53 photos, consisting of a short chronology of events from August through October, 2014. Subsequent photo posts will be much longer.

Just as a quick reminder, I live in the town of Calca, Peru. It is situated at an altitude of just over 9,600 feet above sea level, nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains on all sides (except for a few narrow valleys / river channels). The valley is called “The Sacred Valley”, and it stretches from Cusco all the way to Machu Picchu.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

Playground Updates

These first twelve photos document a few of the many ongoing changes that are always taking place in what I call my “playground” – the magical space where I have conducted all of my healing ceremonies.

This is the view right outside my kitchen window, in early August 2014. The two fields in front of me are growing cauliflower, and the gardener is currently giving them a drink of water because this is the dry season. The water comes from the irrigation ditch that splits off from the river just upstream a tiny bit. The view from my kitchen is a gorgeous view no matter what time of year.

This is a zoomed-in view of one of the lower peaks of Mount Pitusiray (Pronounced pee-two-see-RYE) as seen from my garden.

According to Wikipedia, the highest peak of this mountain is 5,800 meters above sea level, which equals 19,028 feet above sea level. I’m not sure if I can see the highest peaks from my house, but given that the valley floor is already 9,600 feet above the ocean, it kind of distorts my perspective.

During my frequent healing ceremonies, when the weather is good, I almost always sit out by the river. One morning I giggled as I saw this old pot stuck in a shallow spot at the side of the river.

It really is just an old pot, but for whatever reason, it became a profound metaphor in my process that day, and I just had to have a photo of it.

This photo is taken from the same spot, without the zoom. The pot is down there behind the big rock in the middle.

You can see how low the water level is right now. Future posts during rainy season will show a huge change.

I love to get down here in the riverbed  and play in the cold mountain waters.

If you look closely, there are four boys downstream. They are searching for something in the river, checking in pools and turning over rocks. I had a lot of fun watching them.

I zoomed in to catch one of them removing his bucket from the river. I never did figure out what they are catching.

Meanwhile, on August 7, 2014, I became fascinated as I watched a large extended family gather across the river. At first they were just moving huge rocks like this one.

Then I noticed that they were beginning to plow the field using teams of bulls. Eventually there were six different teams of bulls out there at the same time, each pulling their own plow.

A closeup of one of the teams. A large wooden pole is tied to their horns, and then the long plow pole is tied between them. The young man in back guides both the plow and the team of bulls.

Eventually, the bulls were given a much deserved rest. The field had been plowed back and forth repeatedly, for most of the day. Later the older youth and men in the family had gone out to plant corn.

A view of the lower part of Mount Pitusiray, just above my kitchen.

A beautiful fly on my kitchen patio wall. He almost looks like a bee.

An Unexpected Gift

On August 29, 2014, just before 9:00 a.m., I was walking out toward my river playground to engage in another solo ceremony. As I did so, I briefly stopped just above the river to check out the progress on a new retaining wall that my landlord was building in the lower garden.

As I eagerly turned and began to walk back down a small sloping mound of grass, intending to continue out to the river, something very unexpected happened — something I can still, to this day, re-live in slow motion if I think about it. Out of nowhere, a little rock in the hard ground below me seemed to reach up and stop my toe with blunt force. Before I knew that was happening I was free-falling in a head first dive toward a deep furrow in the cauliflower field just a few feet below. My left arm was busy carrying my belongings, so instinctively, I reached out with my right hand to break the fall, and to protect my face.

As my right hand landed, my palm hit a rock at the bottom of the furrow, and with no pain at all, I heard a snapping/cracking sound. As I carefully moved to a sitting and then standing position, I quickly glanced at my right hand. I almost went into shock as I noted that the wrist bone appeared to be about a 1/4 of an inch up and over from where it should be. The pain did not start until later.

To make a long story short, I spent the day in Cusco getting a cast on my arm, placed there by an orthopedic surgeon. The main forearm bone (thumb side) was broken just barely above the wrist. Six weeks later, the cast came off and I learned first hand how much agonizing pain can come from atrophied muscles and frozen joints. By the end of November I had finished the vast majority of self-administered physical therapy and all was mostly well, with just a tiny bit of ongoing stretching required to complete the therapy.

I will share the main details, and the profound spiritual significance of the event, in another blog post. Suffice it to say that the entire event was a magical process of emotional release, trust building, and spiritual growth. For me, it truly was an “Unexpected Gift” disguised as something that I never would have chosen.

These “broken arm” photos were all taken on September 11, 2014, thirteen days after I broke my arm.

This is me standing on the path where I broke my arm. I was walking down from the little mound from where my friend Anne-Marie is taking the photo. It is a few feet higher up than I am. My left arm is mostly pointing to the deep furrow where I landed.

A closeup showing more details of my arm. The cast went up and around the elbow. It was very humbling to ask for help. For the next seven-plus weeks, I could not even hold a knife to cut up soft fruit. My right hand was completely useless for the first four of those weeks. My landlord helped me replace my drinking water bottle (5 gallons) when it went empty, and I had my friends or a woman at the market help me cut up fruit for smoothies.

I learned very soon that I could form a hamburger patty with my left hand – and that soon became one of the only things I could cook on my own.

Standing in the actual furrow where my hand hit the rock.

Pretending to pout as I point to the exact spot. I did go through frequent processes of emotional release, but I can honestly say that after the initial shock, even before the cast was on, I never doubted the inspired nature of what was going on.

One last photo, showing my normal face during the whole process.

And one last photo showing the upper mound from where I started walking down to the lower path ….

The New Retaining Wall

At the end of August, Abelardo (my landlord) hired his gardener to build a new retaining wall above the river. The old wall had collapsed during a previous rainy season, and the new wall was necessary to keep the river from washing away his garden in the future. I had been watching the progress for days as Nicolas (the gardener) and his sons used branches and wooden ramps to move huge boulders and rocks from the riverbed. They tediously built what is at least an eight-foot wall using large rocks – doing so with manual labor.

It was when they were almost finished that I stopped to view their progress and then broke my arm early on that last Friday morning of August.

This photo is taken from my patio. If you look closely, you can see my landlord just below and to the right of the trunk of that tree in the middle of the photo. This was taken on September 13, 2014, just 15 days after I broke my arm. The wall was finished a few days earlier, and my landlord spent the last few days laying a row of concrete blocks on top.

Right now, in this photo, he is using a trowel to place a thin row of concrete on top the block wall. He seems to take pride in making his property look nice.

I used a zoom on this one. You can see the top of the wall with a row of concrete blocks on top. Abelardo is carrying another small trowel of cement to finish off the handiwork.

One final photo, like the earlier one.

More Playground Updates

These next 19 photos were taken on October 6, 2014.

In this photo you can see that the river is still quite low. If you look at the far wall, just above the dam, you can use that as a reference point to compare to my rainy-season posts that will come later this week.

I kept telling myself that one day soon (when I had my cast off) that I would get down in this pool to go swimming.

I ran to get my camera because I saw the farmer across the river again plowing his field. This time, he used only one team of bulls, and was actually guiding them between rows of corn. You can see that the corn is already at least a foot tall.

A closeup of the plowing process. It must have been tedious to make sure the bulls did not trample the corn.

… and from another perspective.

I took a break to visit the flower garden. I loved this magical pink rose.

And the irises are beautiful too. Right now, there aren’t many of them because Abelardo and his gardner keep picking them to either sell or display in their home.

A few cabbage plants growing along the path.

Looking from the flower garden back toward my house. The cauliflower is almost completely harvested, and is now surrounded by weeds.

Another view closer in.

As I walk back to the “arm breaking spot”, I stop to get a photo from a different perspective. I fell and broke my arm on the left side of the path, just before the darker green grassy area that climbs up to the wall on the right.

I had a hard time doing it with my left hand, but I finally drew a couple of little hearts on my cast.

A closer view of the wall from the garden side.

Looking from the wall, across the river, as my farmer friends take a break from plowing the new corn. The man in the red-vertical-stripe shirt is my neighbor. He will show up in future photos.

From the wall, looking back across the weed-filled upper cauliflower garden. Most of the cauliflower has been harvested and sold. Only a few young plants continue to mature.

From the wall, looking upstream back toward my river playground in the distance. If you look closely you can see a bridge across the river in the background. The dam is just in front of that bridge.

Looking down over the wall, at the river below. It is about eight feet from here to there. You cannot really perceive the height in the photo.

Also standing by the wall, looking back at my house. I live on the bottom level, and that is my kitchen with the blue-green walls on the right.

Some beautiful little flowers along the path back to the house.

Just outside my front door, on the street side, the city recently began to resurface the road. They dug it all up, brought in new soil, and then flattened it back down, leaving it as a dirt road. For several weeks, I was getting a lot of traffic and construction noise during the daytime.

Hungry Bulls

A couple of weeks later, on October 18, 2014, Nicolas (the gardener) brought in a bunch of bulls to feed off of the cauliflower and weeds that had now taken over the field in front of my kitchen.

At first I was a little intimidated by the bulls, but soon learned that they are actually quite docile when treated with respect.

These photos are taken from my kitchen area. At first the bulls were tied up in the upper field. Each has a rope around its horns and is staked to a different spot so that they won’t roam freely and eat what they are not supposed to.

Another view with the bulls in the upper field (it is hard to see most of them).

As I was back in my kitchen for the evening, I decided to snap a photo of my bouquet from the flower garden. I decided that if everyone else can pick the flowers, then I can enjoy them too.

The next day, on October 19, the bulls were moved down to the lower field, right by my kitchen. There were about six bulls in total.

One of them really enjoying the weeds and cauliflower.

A couple of other bulls doing the same. Later in the day, one of them got loose from his rope and was having a good old time eating things that he shouldn’t … trees, herbs, vegetables, etc…

I felt bad, because the bull was having so much fun and seemed so excited … but I finally used a stick to gently (and carefully) nudge him back to where he belonged. Then I contacted Nicolas’s family. His son later came to the field and tied the little jail-breaker back to his stake in the ground.

I got a lot of profound emotional processing out of the experience. I had helped to put that bull back into his restrictive ropes – and I used the metaphor to explore all of the mental ropes that were given to me by others, and that I have then used to keep myself tied down within “proper behavior” boundaries.

I believe this is the bull that was temporarily exploring with excited freedom.

Unexpected Candid Processing

These last two photos are very special and sacred to me. I did not even know these photos existed until a few hours after they were taken. Please do not use these photos in ANY way without first receiving my permission.

My friend Jeanette came to visit me for a month. She arrived near the end of October and stayed for nearly all of November.

At the end of October, just a day or two before we went to Machu Picchu, Jeanette and I shared a ceremony together out in my river playground.

I will write full details in a later blog, but at one moment when I was quite giggly and happy, Jeanette felt guided to ask if I would like her to do a little energy work on me. As she placed her hands near the back of my neck, I was suddenly shocked to feel a wave of old sadness and grief beginning to rage through me. She had not caused it — she had simply helped me to access what was already in me, what was quite hidden and buried.

I have learned in my emotional healing journey to never repress what wants to come up, so I fully surrendered to the wave of emotion, and before I knew what was happening I was sobbing uncontrollably for nearly an hour.

What is beautiful is that I intuitively recognized the emotion as it began to flow. It was me, as a very young child between the ages of four and six. I have very vivid memories of me being extremely emotional during this time. Quite frequently, I would be lying in my bed while sobbing uncontrollably, with my mother kneeling on the floor beside me as she compassionately tried to comfort me and help me stop crying.

But, prior to this day, I had absolutely no memory of WHY I had cried so much as a tiny child. I only remembered these frequent times when I had. On this day (end of October, 2014) I regressed and became that child and realized that as I sobbed and sobbed, that I was feeling the emotions that I, as a tiny child, could not feel. They were emotions of deep grief over having lost (or losing) my connection to my higher guides and angels, my source and connection to divine guidance. In my heart, I absolutely know this to be true.

The whole process was sacred, profound, and intense. It took all of the strength I had not to get lost in the emotion once I began to give it permission to flow.

Later, when Jeanette told me that she had felt guided to snap a couple of candid photos without me knowing about it, I was eager to see those photos.

Even now, on March 12, 2015, as I prepare this post, I can still FEEL the emotion as I look at my contorted expression. WOW … it was so profound.

Viewing this photo in full size helps me remember the experience more deeply. Click on it with your mouse if you want to enlarge it.

This concludes this first photo post since August. Again I want to request, Please do not use these last two photos in ANY way without first receiving my permission.

Copyright © 2015 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

On July 5, 2014, I moved from Pisac to Calca. Both towns are in the Sacred Valley, in the Cusco region, nestled in the Andes mountains of Peru.

Calca is situated at an altitude of just over 9,600 feet above sea level, nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains on all sides (except for a few narrow valleys / river channels). Pisac has become a popular spot for westerners to live, and is a sort of hub for spiritual travelers. Calca, about thirty minutes away via local transportation, is almost entirely untouched by tourists. I hear that there are perhaps less than a dozen foreigners living here, but I rarely see them. In fact, I have only see two that I am sure of. In other words, I am living alone in a community where speaking English is simply not an option.

At least for now, I rarely go out unless it is to shop or run errands. I have been doing a huge amount of inner journeying, personal ceremonies, and meditation, focusing on my own private “retreat of sorts”.

The place was 99% unfurnished when I moved in, and I pay only 500 soles per month (about $182 US). Within three days of stating my intention to move here, I had manifested all the furnishings that I need to fully function with kitchen and bedroom). The cost was extremely reasonable, and I should be able to recoup it all when (if) I liquidate the belongings and move on. Presently, I have signed a lease that ends in mid November, but who knows??? I certainly do not.

On the outside, in front, the house looks rather basic and dirty, but walking down the dark hallway to the back side of the property is like walking into Narnia. It is a magical playground for me.

After living here for six weeks, I have decided it is time to post a few (a lot of) photos.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

The Outer World

I don’t have many photos of Calca itself. Following are the few that I do have.

This photo was taken on June 16 – the first day that I explored Calca as I went to see the house for the first time.

There is a funny story behind this photo. I am in the “Plaza Municipal”, one of two town squares. I arrived early, so spent about an hour lounging in this beautiful little park. Suddenly I noticed two women painting benches just across from me (this photo). And then it hit me. The bench where I was sitting was VERY WHITE compared to others around me. As I began to shift positions, I felt my pants slightly sticking to the bench. To make a long story short, my butt was covered with white. I almost did nothing, but then realized I had sweat pants on underneath. After removing the outer layer, I walked over to one woman, and in the best Spanish I could muster, showed her the paint on my pants and asked if she might have something to help remove it. We giggled together for the next twenty minutes as we poured turpentine and scrubbed repeatedly until most of the paint was gone.

Another view of the center of this beautiful plaza, with the bench beyond the fountain still in the process of being painted. The woman with the paintbrush is barely visible on the left center.

And another view in this plaza. I was sitting on the far side of the fountain.

This, and most subsequent photos, were taken on August 4, 2014.

This is the street in front of my house, as seen from my front door, looking left, up the road that leads into the mountains. My house is the wall at the left edge. The street is paved here, but has so much gravel on it that it appears (and sounds) unpaved. A vehicle driving by quickly makes a lot of noise over the loose, crunching rocks.

Across the street is a little “monumento mulita” … monument to the mule. It is not visible in this thumbnail, but can be seen in subsequent photos.

This is taken from the same spot, looking right, back toward the town of Calca. I am about a fifteen minute walk from the center of town.

The little store behind that car on the left belongs to “Maria”. I buy eggs and miscellaneous items there. I do most bigger shopping at the large town market.

A motorcycle zooming down my street, coming from the left. You can see political signs on the building to the left. It seems to be a very political season right now, and people paint their own homes with such signs.

A closeup of the monument in honor of the “mule”. This is directly across the street from my front door.

The view looking out my front door.

This is my house as seen from across the street. I am renting the entire downstairs level. The upstairs belongs to the landlord. He lives there about half of the year. Right now he is living in Lima, so I have the place to myself. My bedroom window is the middle one on the bottom.

Another photo of the street leading back toward Calca. This is taken from the same spot as the previous photo (across the street).

Looking straight out (just right of the mule monument) at another road that curves back toward town, leading to the market. It is dirt right now, but appears to be in the process of being prepared for paving. The construction is literally shaking/vibrating me in my kitchen at times, LOL.

Looking straight back toward town, with a zoom.

A motorcycle truck … fairly common around here.

A closeup of my next door neighbor’s house. I haven’t officially met them, but they seem really nice, and are quite active in the farm field out behind my house (and across the river).

Looking up the road with a zoom.

Another photo of the monumento mulita.

The Inside … and the Paint Job

When moving in, I asked the landlord if I might be able to paint. He told me “yes” and the former resident told me that I should expect to pay for it all myself. The landlord “Abelardo” did, however, patch up all the holes himself. I spent nine days, all day long, painting five rooms, plus the exterior of all exterior areas.

This is a photo in my kitchen. The walls were very dirty and grungy. I really wanted nicer walls.

Before taking these photos, I had already begun painting. I have already painted new white paint around all the edges. The actual ceiling is not yet painted.

You can see how much difference the new white ceiling is going to make.

The other end of the kitchen, BEFORE painting … very dirty.

And this is my kitchen AFTER painting and doing a tiny bit of decorating. That table is nothing but an old door and a bunch of concrete blocks for a base, with a newly purchased indigenous fabric for a table cloth.

I love this spot for my computer. I have a gorgeous view, it is warmer at night, and away from my sleeping quarters.

The wall  opposite the table area. Nothing luxury, but I love it, and have it all to myself.

Looking at the other end of the kitchen, now painted. The refrigerator is on the left, and my little toaster oven on the right. That window leads to a spare bedroom. I have three bedrooms and a living room, but only use the one bedroom plus this kitchen.

Another view, showing my table and refrigerator, with the door between them.

As I began to paint my bedroom on July 9, I quickly stopped and took a few photos here too. I had already begun to put light green paint on the edges. The walls were a very dark orange with lots of dirt and smudges.

Looking at the bathroom door from the middle of my bedroom. Yes, yippee, I have a private bath. (also pre paint)

And looking at my bed and wall behind. That window is filled with adobe, and is very dirty. The people wo renters ago put the adobe there to block out street noise. I only hear it a tiny bit at night because I rarely hang out in this room during the daytime.

Me, taking a photo in the bathroom mirror.

Another mirror photo. The bathroom walls were the same dark orange color, and very dirty.

My bedroom after painting. I chose the light green because I wanted a “heart chakra” color and it is so much lighter and happier than that dark orange. You can also see the end of a long table that I built using another old door, more concrete blocks, and another indigenous cloth. I use it as a meditation alter.

I kept half of the room in a more yellow color, but covered the old orange with yellow, giving it a brighter feel. And it even has a textured, multi-color look (not visible in the photo) – the kind you might pay someone else to do.

The little corner with my meditation space.

Bobby-bear and Brenda-doll enjoying my pillow.

I considered hiding the adobe, but after cleaning the window up and painting neatly, I quite like it the way it is.

I did not take any pre-paint photos of this living room. I do not see myself using it for that purpose. I felt guided to paint it and clean it up just in case I might want to host any ceremonies here. This is a large room with a beautiful tile floor. The window looks out in the garden.

And this is the other side of the living room, also having an adobe-filled window.

The Back Exterior Of My House

This is taken from across the garden, looking back at the  house. The one-story blue-green building is my kitchen. The house is built like a courtyard, with all rooms opening to the outside. Just left of that kitchen, down a dark hall, are entrances to the two spare bedrooms. I did not paint them or furnish them.

I also have the bottom half of the two-story structure. It has my bedroom with bathroom, the living room, and an extra bathroom.

Another view of the house from the upper garden area.

And another, taken from the far end of the garden. Behind me is a gate that leads into a magical river playground.

A different view showing the mountains to the south. This is winter and they look dry … plus we are at 9600 feet in elevation, right here in the valley.

A closer view of my kitchen exterior. I often sit on a bench just below that window, taking in the warm morning sun.

And another angle with a slightly different perspective.

Just more perspectives…

Closer view of my kitchen exterior.

And a closer view of the main house building. Remember, I only occupy the downstairs part. I have a huge outdoor patio under that upper building.

This one shows the entire house area from across the garden.

Taken from the bench on my patio, looking back through the bushes toward the garden.

Looking from the same spot, but pointing more to the right. The door at the right edge of the photo leads into the garden. This is a beautiful space to sit outdoors and meditate.

Looking from the same spot again, to the left, toward the kitchen. Yes, that IS a bicycle behind that yellow post. The landlord gave it to me to use while I am here. That door on the left leads to the first spare bedroom.

From the kitchen, looking back toward my bedroom door and patio area.

Another view from the kitchen, looking at both levels of the main house.

A closer view as I approach the kitchen from the patio area.

Another view of the patio area, seen from by the kitchen.

There are beautiful flowering plants and shrubs surrounding the wall that separates the house from the garden.

The gorgeous view looking out my kitchen window. You have to enlarge this photo to really appreciate it.

A closeup of my outdoor table in the patio. It is also an old door supported by concrete block, with an indigenous cloth to cover it.

On the table are a few items that I have collected during outdoor ceremonies.

These two pieces of ceramic took on special meaning as I randomly found them in the garden and discovered that they fit perfectly.

Here they are fitting together.

A beautiful flower on the patio wall.

An interesting potted plant on the patio wall.

An unknown fruit with a bitter taste, also along the patio wall. I understand why I don’t see them for sale in the street market.

The Garden Playground

The following photos are taken in and around the garden area. I have a lot of fun exploring out here.

A view of the garden area from the patio wall. At the far end, a door leads to a private space by the river. On the left are huge eucalyptus trees that line the river.

Looking from the kitchen wall to the west. It is hard to see here, but there are huge mountains on all sides. It is almost sunset here and the sun is preparing to set behind that mountain, … thus the glare.

I have gotten over my refusal to walk barefoot in the garden, and now do it all the time … at least when the sun is out. I love these little yellow flowers.

This is the path that leads from my house to the river side of the garden.

There are two large gardens here, one slightly higher. I am now looking at the upper one. Both gardens are planted and cared-for by the neighbors. I am still not sure if this is cabbage or perhaps broccoli.

Now walking along the path on the river side of the upper garden. The wall on the left separates the garden from the river below.

Another look back at the house, taken from the same place.

Now you can see the gate in the distance. This leads out to the river playground. The door is open because I am doing a ceremony out there, and felt guided to grab my camera and take all these photos.

Looking to the west, through a gap in the vegetation, across the river toward the far mountains.

And yet another garden … a flower garden … on the left just before the gate. I spend some time in here too.

This is another view of the flower garden. The river is just left of where that wall ends. Huge eucalyptus trees tower to my left. Most of the blooms get picked shortly after they expose their beauty. The young boy who cares for much of the garden cuts the flowers and takes them home.

I love these red-leaf plants.

A few Iris flowers have managed to remain unseen for a day or two, not yet being cut by the boy.

This old pruned and thorny rose bush has taken a deep metaphorical journey with me, many times.

And I have also connected with this thorn-less rose. I watched a beautiful bud gradually open over more than a week … and then suddenly it was gone. I was sad when it was cut by the boy, but soon found the pure loving innocence of it all.

I have especially connected with this stand of eucalyptus trees. Large old stumps were once cut, and these younger trees grow from those old thriving root systems.

Looking back at the house from the flower garden gate.

A closer look at the plants growing in the garden. I have watched a few times as a caretaker waters them using a diverted irrigation ditch, and then several young men come in to chop and hoe the weeds.

An even closer look. I am waiting to see what they turn out to be … still suspecting cabbage or broccoli.

A pile of debris by the large eucalyptus tree.

An old garden tool in the same general area.

A different view of the old eucalyptus stump with new sprouts growing. I have occasionally sat on this stump to feel the tree’s energy.

Still fascinated by these plants.

Looking back down the path that leads between the river and garden, back toward the house.

Walking that path, barefoot.

Loving the process of connecting with the energy of Mother Earth. I can’t believe I used to hate having bare feet in the soil.

I have been finding incredible beauty in simple things, like these little clover flowers.

And this one … noticing the symmetry and different shapes.

The neighbors who care for the garden live in these houses (at least I think they do), directly on the other side of the upper garden.

Standing on my patio, looking through the door out into the garden.

Same place, but without the door … looking mostly north.

Another stand of beautiful flowers along the path.

A different perspective at the base of the flower garden, looking through the trees at the mountains above.

And a similar attempt at creative photography.

Looking across the river at a field with mountains in the distance. (My garden in the foreground)

Another view looking northwest.

Looking up at the cloud-covered mountain to the west.

My River Playground

Barely looking through the door at the top of the flower garden.

Now, standing in that door and looking to the  north. This area is dry but grassy, triangular in shape. The river is on the left. A little irrigation diversion ditch runs on the right. Directly below me is a return channel for unused irrigation water. To my right is a control platform where the channel gates can be opened and closed.

Having stepped into the grassy area, I now look back toward the door and the irrigation controls on the platform to the left. The ditch that runs forward on the left exists in a little narrow “alley” between my garden wall and the neighbor’s walls. The ditch that goes right is the return runoff for unused water.

This is taken from the same spot, looking to the right where the unused water runs through that gap in the wall and cascades down into the river below. I often find myself walking barefoot through that very cold water, down that runoff channel, and stepping down into the river below.

Toward the upper point of this triangle, I have my blanket and sheepskin set up for my ceremony in progress. You can barely see the river on the left. At the upper part of the photo are an old bridge and another little irrigation platform.

Looking from above, back toward the lower part of the grassy area. The garden area and house are through that gate on the left.

Looking across the river at a field that was filled with tall wheat just a few days ago. A week later it will become a flurry of activity as five teams of bulls are used to pull manual plows, following which corn will be planted.

Looking directly across the river from my blanket.

And looking a tiny bit upstream.

The beautiful mountains … bad lighting and winter make them look dryer in this photo … but they are gorgeous to me.

A mule grazes in the field. A few days ago, a bunch of bulls were grazing here.

Looking downstream from the river wall near my blanket.

Another view of my ceremonial space. The sheepskin was given to me, and really helps make things warmer on the cold ground.

Another view downstream, this one including the majestic eucalyptus trees.

This beautiful Dartura tree (Toe Tree in Spanish) graces the southern edge of the river playground.

The Dartura tree with a huge mountain in the background (remember, the valley is already at 9600 feet in elevation).

This orange house is barely visible through the trees. It is above the grassy area, behind a wall.

A closer view of the door back into the garden. I frequently walk across this concrete slab, which acts as a small bridge over the irrigation runoff water.

Fires such as this (see the smoke) are quite common around here. The farmers frequently pile up old plant debris and light a match.

Another view of the fire in the far distance (full zoom).

An attempt to capture the beauty of this mountain to the west. It is nearly sunset and the glare really plays with the lighting, not allowing me to capture the colors.

Some of the cute plants along the wall, above the river.

There are also several geraniums.

Including red ones.

Looking at the bridge just upstream. I love how those young eucalyptus trees grow so vigorously from those old mature stumps.

Another attempt to outwit the sun. That mountain really is beautiful.

More clover flowers near my blanket.

A glimpse down the irrigation ditch that runs behind my garden wall. On the right edge you can barely see into my garden.

A different view of the same. The water on the left runs forward if the ditch is open. All other water spills over to the right and returns to the river.

Another view of the return channel taking unused water back to the river. I love to wade in here.

Looking back toward the river from this corner of the triangle.

The Dartura tree and the little channel, in one photo.

Another view of the field across the river. I have had a lot of fun watching activity over there.

Now I am down in the river channel, looking back at the river wall. My blanket is right in the middle, above the wall. The garden gate in the distance on the right.

Another beautiful flower in this area.

A closeup of a beautiful bell-like Dartura flower.

And a small tree with hanging red flowers.

Looking southwest from the place where the runoff water re-enters the river.

More of the geranium. I took a huge number of photos out here and could not get myself to delete many of them. They are in semi-organized order, but also quite random in places.

Yellow flowers on a small tree in this area.

Another view of that same tree, with the irrigation ditch behind it.

With this photo, I was trying to capture the effects of a strong breeze blowing the leaves around. You cannot really tell that the wind is blowing strongly.

This area is usually quite private, but is often visited by others on a mission … such as this man who came up from the lower irrigation ditch to adjust the flow.

At first I felt “invaded” by such unannounced visitors. Now, I rather enjoy the fact that it doesn’t bother me in the least. I simply smile and wave, and they leave me alone.

More of the red geraniums.

And another photo of this beautiful place.

My Ceremonial Playground

I have been holding private ceremonies out in the river and garden space, at least three or four times per week, beginning at the end of July.

I come out here sometime around 8:00 or 9:00 a.m. and set my space up, and then spend the day here until some time between 3:00 and 4:00 p.m., after the sun goes behind the mountain and it gets very cold.

Another typical view.

My hat and sunglasses come in handy when the sun is strong. It is high altitude and it is winter in the Andes Mountains … yet our proximity to the equator helps to mix things up. When the sun is out it can get nice and warm, like a nice spring day. When the sun goes behind a cloud or the mountain, or when the breeze blows, it can get very cold.

On Aug 4, 2014, I happened to have a bag of old peas that needed to be eaten, so I took it out here with me, sorting out the rotten ones and eating these good ones.

I love picking up occasional items that have a metaphorical meaning in my process. Today, these eucalyptus shells demanded that my gathering instincts be activated.

I have also begun to use my voice recorder, frequently recording my journey and the things that flow through my mind.

This shocks even me. I have never been able to get into a full yogic position, but I am getting close. Today, I tried this for the first time and was actually able to maintain this pose for a few seconds.

Feeling especially giggly today, I took many self photos, hoping to get a good one or two. I love them all.

I liked this one so much it is now my Facebook profile photo.

This one really made me giggle. A day or two earlier, my right earring had disappeared and after searching everything and everywhere I gave up ever seeing it again.

Then, today, after being up and down on that sheepskin repeatedly, over several hours, I suddenly looked down and it had appeared right in the middle of that white sheepskin, as if placed there by higher energies. I put it on and had to show it off.

It is hard to do a self-photo with a zoom LOL.

And time for a photo without that hat.

And one final one with my hat.

Abelardo’s dog “Shook” … the previous owner told me the story of how he had asked Abelardo to explain the name “Shook”. It took a few exchanges to understand, but my friend finally told me that Abelardo said, you know “Shook … like Shook Conner”. It is now so obvious … “Chuck”, pronounced in Spanish would indeed sound like Shook.

Anyway, sometimes this little dog can be so playful and eager to be all over me … and other times he gives  me the cold shoulder. Today he was very playful. I am grateful that I do not need to care for him. The neighbor boy does that.

“Who, me?”

I have been having quite the journey with very itchy bites. They come from some type of “chigger” or “no-see-um”. I never feel the bites until well after they have happened, and never see what is biting me. Today, I took a couple of photos to remember the journey. For me, the bites have deep metaphorical meaning as I working on “healing the things that bite me … annoy me … bug me.”

I  have fifteen or twenty bites just on this one upper leg alone (front and back).

There is a went sandy spot down by the river, and that spot is always covered by bees. This too has been a fascinating metaphor at times. In this photo there are only three bees, but there were about fifteen in the general area, drinking the moisture of the sand??

And five more in this tiny area.

And two more. I have never tasted this soil to see if it is sweet … but it is definitely wet.

I often take this beautiful rose quartz with me as well.

This farmer often crosses that upper bridge and goes out to his field. Today he is taking something out in a sack and scattering it … perhaps organic waste.

We always wave at each other when I see him. One day he sent his daughter out to give me a glass of “chicha” … a lightly fermented drink made from corn. Usually it is not alcoholic in a measurable way, but that glass, given to me in a cut-off plastic soda bottle, had a kick to it.

On a couple other days, he saw me down by the river and tried to encourage me to jump into the deep part of the pool. I giggled, shaking my head left to right, and said “too cold”. Who knows, one day soon I may fully immerse myself in that pool.

The farmer walking back across his bridge.

The River Playground

I occasionally (often) go exploring in the river when I am out for a ceremony, barefoot with sweatpants rolled up. It is cold, but very fun.

 

At the top of my grassy area is this old concrete dam, long since eroded into a small waterfall. Sometimes it is a single cascade when the water is higher. I’m only guessing that this dam was built to provide water for the irrigation ditch, but that is now accomplished by homemade rock dams about twenty feet higher.

A better view of the dam and pool below. The pool on the far side is at least five or six feet deep.

A view from downstream, looking upstream.

I often stand on this platform and rest against the rail. This appears to be an  old ditch control that is no longer usable because the dam has eroded.

A bridge just upstream. I cannot get to it from my side of the river, because it goes right into the neighbor’s wall, but I have been up on top of it a few times when approaching from the far wall. (I cross the river and climb the far side).

Perched on the platform, looking downstream.

Another view of the dam/falls.

Looking downstream from the wall. I often cross the river on the rocks … and sometimes just walk in the cold waters, placing my feet on the bottom.

Another similar view. If you look closely, you can see a boy in the river down in the distance.

A young boy crossing the river down below (taken with zoom). This looks like the boy who takes care of the dog and sometimes the garden.

Looking straight down into the pool from the wall by my blanket. One day I took all the old weeds on these rocks and threw them into the currents to be carried away. Today, I watch a pile of fresh weeds in the pool. The farmer threw them there and I watched them swirl in the circular current.

You can see the weeds in the right side of the pool, just going in circles.

Taken from up near the bridge, looking downstream. The dam is in the foreground, with the pool below it.

A view from the dam, and the water flow above it. A wall of rocks has been built to slow and divert the water to the right, such that it flows into the irrigation ditch.

Another view, looking downstream from above the left side of the dam.

In this photo, I am standing in the middle of the current, above the waterfall, on a wet rock that divides the two cascades. I am having a blast.

And here, I am in the same place, looking at the top of the falls.

Looking at the pool from above. It took a day or two, but those weeds eventually broke up and disappeared downstream.

Looking back at the rock where I was standing a few minutes ago.

Looking at the falls from the far side of the river.

Looking back at the wall from the far side, back toward where my blanket is placed on the grass, above that wall.

This old eucalyptus branch has been here for a long time. One of these days I might move it.

From down below, in the middle of the river, looking back upstream.

Another view of the wall, with my grassy area above.

More or less the same view, just zoomed in to show the wall on the far side of the grassy area.

A rock in the middle of the river where I often stand. Sometimes it is under the water when the runoff is higher.

Me, stepping out into the current, onto the rock.

And now, fully on the rock with both feet.

Another view looking downstream.

The upstream part of this same wall.

And another view. I often walk along this lower wall of protruding rocks. If you look close you can see the small cascade where the irrigation ditch empties into the river at the far end of this wall. It is easy to climb back up through that ditch, and this lower wall of rocks is a convenient path.

The irrigation ditch emptying into the river. Sometimes it is just a trickle, and sometimes a large cascade itself.

Me, standing in the water as the ditch empties onto my feet. This water is very cold.

Now walking up the ditch. It is not very deep today.

Looking back from the ditch toward the river below.

My Scenic Playground

These remaining photos are a random sampling of all the scenery around my house, garden, and river area.

Looking from the river area, across the river, to the southwest.

Looking more toward the south, with a stronger zoom. Much of that mountain burned up just a few days ago.

Looking to the northwest from my blanket space. It is very hard to see, but in the sky area, blurred by glare, are much taller peaks that often have a dusting of snow.

Looking to the east, over the neighbor’s house, at the smaller hill here. (Remember, we are already at 9600 feet in elevation).

Looking toward neighbor houses from the garden area.

I kept seeing this blue dot on that mountain to the east. Finally, I took this photo with full zoom, and then digitally zoomed in to see what it is. It is a building.

Slightly better view to the northwest, showing the taller mountains further back.

Another attempt to outsmart the sun as it sets over the mountain to the west. Just cannot get my camera to adjust for the glare.

Today, there was a beautiful swirl of thin clouds above me.

More of those clouds with a tall tree to add contrast.

And more unique sky in the distance.

Another view looking southwest, different lighting.

Still trying to get a better view of those taller peaks to the northwest (behind the near mountain).

Hiding behind a tree, with some zoom, I manage to get this photo … but it is still not very clear.

This one is using a full zoom, catching that lower, middle mountain from the previous photo. You can barely see some white snowy areas.

Still playing with my camera in the same spot.

More mountains to the south, with the Dartura flowers in the foreground.

Another attempted pre-sunset photo.

Looking a little southwest.

More northwest.

Suddenly, I see the half moon above me.

The moon, without the zoom.

Still trying that sunset photo.

The side of the mountain to the west, showing a conglomeration of farm fields on the side. Again, the glare interferes.

A stand of eucalyptus trees, young and old.

The sun has partially disappeared, but the glare still interferes with colors. The sun disappears around 3:50 p.m., but the area remains light until around 6:00 p.m..

Zooming through the eucalyptus trees to capture a better image of those rugged mountains to the northwest.

An unzoomed view of the same.

Finally, the lack of sun is helping.

From the garden, looking southeast after the sun has disappeared. You can see that it is still quite bright, reflecting off nearby mountains.

More of the rugged mountains to the northwest.

And more …

Looking northeast, as seen from my kitchen area.

The wind is blowing strongly, as you can finally see by the bend of these leaves.

And this is the end of my photos for today. I hope you enjoyed them

Copyright © 2014 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

On July 4, 2014, the day before moving from Pisac to my new home in Calca, the President of Peru came to visit me ….

Well … maybe he didn’t come to visit ME, but he did come to Pisac for a half-day visit. Having never been in the personal space of a “President” of any country, I decided to enjoy the cultural experience … especially, since back where I come from, it was Independence Day … the Fourth of July.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

The Waiting Game

Early that morning, I met at the home of a new friend and we loaded up all of the belongings that I purchased from her, putting them into her small pickup truck. Included in that list was a refrigerator, a toaster oven, a dresser, a bookshelf, a table, a couple of rugs, and many miscellaneous kitchen and household items. She is moving back to Europe and I took advantage of the magic synchronicity to furnish a great deal of my new “unfurnished” home.

As we drove away from her home, attempting to get onto the main highway for the half-hour ride to Calca, we were shocked by the traffic delays and helicopters. Upon returning to Pisac, a little over an hour later, I asked a few people in town what was happening. “The president is coming,” one young woman told me. Quickly, I ran home to get my camera, returning to the town plaza less than an hour later.

Rather than the usual crowded marketplace, the plaza was cleared of all internal booths, and instead surrounded by official PR booths such as these.

Another view of the plaza. You can see that there is lots of signage everywhere … signs put there by many of the towns in this region of Peru.

More of the booths in front of the local church.

A military band doing pre-event entertainment.

Another view of the band.

A stage set up on one side of the plaza, waiting for the President’s arrival. I found a place to sit on the steps, right about at the spot from where I am taking this photo.

A sign welcoming president “Ollanta Humala” to the town of Pisac, in the district of Cusco, Peru.

People and a couple of armed guards on the roof … just above one of the signs from the community of Santa Teresa.

More onlookers on a roof. This is a great photo of the little cross and two bulls that decorate their roof (on the left). This is quite common in this part of the world. The little “alter” on the roof is to bring blessings and good luck.

From where I was sitting (directly opposite the stage), looking behind me across the sign-covered plaza and the Andes Mountains beyond.

Directly at my back was a raised platform, intended to be a place for a swarm of camera operators (which came later). For now, many local men use the platform to construct homemade signs that they plan to hold in the crowd.

The President is on his way, but not here yet. He will emerge from that crowded corner of the plaza.

As i stand in front of the platform (on the right front corner) I begin to take many photos. This gentleman is named Brian … he lives in the Pisac area and is well known for the yummy peanut butter and other natural products that he makes and sells in the area. It is very difficult to buy peanut butter any other way.

Another photo of a man writing a message on a piece of large cardboard.

It is easier to see part of the sign in this photo.

A local woman walking in front of me. I love the local clothing.

As I sat waiting, a young man asked me if I spoke English. When I told him that I do, he struck up a conversation. Eventually, I was helping him, and his friends, to do their English homework. They were quite grateful … and I had a lot of fun talking to them.

Another photo of the same scene.

As a group of people from one of the nearby villages stands to have their photo taken, I sneak one of my own.

Same, with slightly less zoom.

Another local delegation in their colorful outfits. I wish they were facing me.

The police and military were everywhere, with a strong and visible presence.

Finally, more than an hour later, the President is arriving.

I did not know who to look for in the crowd, but when he walked onto the stage, it was obvious who he was.

And now you can see his face.

A large group stood between my spot and the stage, but I was on steps, several feet higher, and had a great view … unless people held up their signs. Luckily, the camera people on the platform behind me quickly put a stop to that, and I had a perfect seat for the LONG proceedings.

First there was the singing of the Peruvian National Anthem.

Closeup of the singing, with hand on heart.

The crowd directly to my right. You can see people on the roof behind.

A zoomed in view of the same scenario.

A few more of the stern-faced officers.

Much of the first hour was consumed with formalities, speeches by other government ministers of “this and that”, and awards being presented.

This gentleman is giving that beautiful ceremonial staff to the president.

Then someone gave him a traditional poncho (wearing it now) and a traditional scarf.

The scarf being put in place.

And finally, the traditional hat, with ear flaps.

One of the times when protestors held up their signs, mostly blocking my view. This sign (left) reads: “In Pisac we are poor. With the airport we will be more poor. We need to be a tourist destination. We ask that you include us in the studies … (can’t read the final word).”

A new airport is being constructed between Cusco and Machu Picchu – one that will bypass tourist traffic – and there is apparently concern here that fewer tourists will come this way.

This sign reads: “Mr. President, we require immediate attention in the pueblo of Pisac”

The president giving an award to a local woman.

And another aware to another local woman.

Standing on the stage with many other government officials, ministers of transportation, development, etc.

After giving an award to a young woman, posing for a photo.

Continuing to speak while holding flowers that were handed to him from the crowd.

Giving an award to yet another local woman.

And another … their were lots of awards given on this day.

Then someone gave the president a woven tapestry with his own face on it.

The president was very attentive to the crowd in front of him, shaking hands, and constantly receiving envelopes and other gifts…

He has now taken off the traditional poncho, hat and scarf, and is wearing a colorful shirt that someone else gave to him.

When the long show is over, the crowd is very pinched and tight as the president is escorted back to the corner of the plaza. I am squeezed into the middle of the crowd, trying to capture more photos. The president is in that car barely turning onto this tiny narrow street. I used to eat at that restaurant with the sign “Ulrike’s”, just down on the right.

More of the police presence, now a little more relaxed.

I am walking down the street as I capture these images.

But I am not the only one on the street. A large crowd chases behind the president’s car.

Believing the president is leaving now, I take a short cut to the field where his two helicopters are parked. I pass these two officers on the way. Before taking the photo, I asked for permission.

Just an interesting adobe wall as I walk ten minutes toward a large soccer field.

More riot police with their shields, just standing along the street.

Just a view looking down the street, while waiting for the president. This is looking away from town, toward the front of the soccer field complex.

Zoomed in view of same place.

More riot police waiting for the president to pass, waiting to see if they are needed.

The two military helicopters that brought the president and his crew of government officials.

Same view, less zoom.

Same view, more zoom.

Many officers waiting by the entrance to the soccer field. They too seem to expect the president to arrive at any time.

An officer walks by me as I wait in the hot sun, sitting on this curb at the other side of the street (from where the helicopters are).

The street here is blocked off for several hours, allowing no traffic. I find this interesting, because this is the only road that joins Calca to Pisac, and on to Cusco. There is another long way from Calca to Cusco via Urubamba if you go the other direction.

A sniper posted on the second floor of a building behind me.

I took a short break to walk across the street. This is looking back at the spot where I have been sitting … and to where I will eventually return.

After more than an hour of just waiting, I walked back into town to see what was happening. It appeared that the president had been inside the local convention center, speaking to people. But just as I get there the official vehicles begin to move and I hurry back to the soccer field.

Local women in the area of the convention center.

Some interesting murals on a building across the street, as I hurry back.

Some of the vehicles headed by me, beating me back to the soccer field.

Official vehicles lined up at the entrance to the parking lot by the helicopters.

By the time I get here, the president is already back inside. Rows of officers line the route.

An officer keeping the crowd back on my side of the street. You can barely see a helicopter through the gate.

Waiting for the helicopters to take off. I giggle as they let traffic resume a minute later. Just as the helicopter begins to leave, a large truck blocks my view.

Still waiting in this photo. The place where I did my first several Huachuma (San Pedro) ceremonies is near the base of the mountain on the opposite side.

I did barely manage to catch this photo of the first helicopter stirring up dust as it begins to move. Right about now, the truck shows up to block my view.

And I managed to barely have time to snap a photo as it flies away.

I could only giggle when, as the second chopper begin to rise, a second truck again blocked my view before I could get any good photos.

But I did manage to get these last two photos of that second helicopter.

As I walked back to town, I was shocked to see huge lines of riot police heading back toward buses. I had only seen a few of them before. Now there are hundreds of them. I wonder where they had been hiding.

Back in town, looking back at yet another long line of riot police marching away toward their buses.

When I arrived back at the town plaza, I was quite surprised to see the area almost entirely broken down, with most all of the booths already removed.

This is the first opportunity I have ever had to get a photo of the town plaza without all of the normal market booths that tightly crowd this area.

A rare view of the local catholic church. Normally, this is invisible from where I now stand.

And another view of the plaza, looking more toward the east. I had no idea it looked like this.

The southwest corner of the plaza continues to have a tiny remnant of the official booths of the day.

And a little spot in the middle of the plaza continues to have these interesting signs that celebrate “Dances of the Holy Virgin of Carmen … Pisac”.

As I walk home, I pass these pigs being herded down the highway. Having my camera with me, and having never seen pigs on this highway before, I took advantage of the opportunity. I wish the photo were not so blurry.

This is the final time I will make this fifteen minute walk before moving from my present place to my new home in Calca, tomorrow morning. I have loved it here, but am excited to move on to my own “more” private space.

Copyright © 2014 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

This post contains 206 photos, including detailed narratives. It covers two days, June 14-15, 2014.

Early on Saturday morning, June 14, 2014, I board the tour boat for the second half of my two-day overnight tour. I say goodbye to my new friends and enjoy the cruise from Amantani Island to Taquile Island. After spending half of the day on Taquile Island, we then board our boat from the other side of the island and cruise back to Puno.

Early on Sunday, June 15, I walk to the “terminal terrestre” and board a a bus that will take me back to Cusco. You might remember that when I came here from Cusco, I was on an overnight bus and did not get to see any of the scenery. On this return trip, I travel in the daytime … and I have a front row seat on the top level of the bus, so I have an amazing view for the return journey.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

Amantani To Taquile

The journey from Amantani Island to Taquile Island takes about an hour. These tour boats move quite slowly.

This is a look back at Amantani Island as we begin our journey. You might notice that there are many streaks in some of these photos. This is because I am taking the photos from inside of the boat, and the windows are wet and dirty.

Another glance at the island itself.

And another look back.

That is Taquile Island coming up in front.

Soon, we are docked on the northeast side of the island and begin a long hike. We are greeted by this sign that lists all the rules.

If you want to read them, click on the photo and you will see that the bottom half of the sign is in English.

Many arches on the trail indicate that we are crossing over a community boundary. We are taking a two kilometer trail up the east side of the island, with a more-or-less gentle (at times steeper) climb to the top. After spending a couple of hours at a village on top, we will then drop down 540 steps back to a boat dock on the west side. Our boat will meet us there.

Looking from the trail back toward Amantani Island.

Part of the trail … looking back.

Another arch … I guess we are changing communities again. There are about six different communities scattered around this island.

Again, looking down the trail toward Amantani Island. You can see how far up I have already climbed.

Looking ahead. The trail is quite gentle, winding gradually upward through little clusters of homes.

I found this to be a fascinating idea. Instead of gate hinges, the owner of this place has used the rubber soles of an old pair of sandals. I’m guessing they work quite well, and likely even cause the gate to swing closed once you pass through.

Looking out over this gorgeous lake. I think this is mostly to the east, and a little bit south.

If you look close you will see solar panels and a satellite dish.

This is the center of one of the small towns. They have an entire array of solar panels here.

As I walk along the path, I find two heart shaped stones.

And another gate … another community boundary.

Eventually, after an hour-long hike, we reach our first destination.

We began hiking at about 8:30 a.m., and it is now about 9:20 a.m.

These signposts point toward various cities in the world, giving their distance (from here) in kilometers.

New York is “that way”, at a distance of 6702 kilometers away.

We are in the town square of one of the island communities.

Another view around the square.

Some of my group, sitting by the signpost. We are waiting for the others to arrive. Some of us arrived at least 20 or 30 minutes ahead of the rest of the group.

An old bell tower on one side of the plaza.

The tower is next to a tiny church.

Another building on the plaza.

That is some of my group in the shadows, still waiting …

I break the rules by taking the photo of a young child without permission.

Soon, I decide to take a tour of a tiny museum on the plaza. I pay five soles (about $2.00 US) for a tour. The man who runs the place only speaks Spanish. I am surprised by how well I can converse with him. I don’t understand everything, but I understand enough.

The top diagram shows  the elevation of the mountains on both sides, with Lake Titicaca in a tiny bowl at the top of the mountain. The pacific ocean is on the left and the Amazon jungle on the right.

The man tells me these are ORIGINAL artifacts found in this region.

More original artifacts. I love how casual this tiny museum is about displaying and guarding these precious items.

A three-dimensional map of Lake Titicaca. The glass is the lake itself. At the bottom of the map (from this perspective) is the city of Puno, and the large Puno bay through which I have traveled. The Uros floating island that I visited yesterday was on the way out of the bay, just before that left finger of land that forms the left side of the bay.

Amantani Island is that island on the other side of that left finger of land. Taquile Island (where I am now) is the other island, near the right peninsula that sticks out to form the right side of the bay.

The “Island of the Sun” is barely visible at the far upper right end of the lake.

This photo shows that other end. Copacabana is out near the end of that large protrusion of land (between the two separate bodies of water). The “Island of the Sun” is the island to the left , out in the middle. The other nearby island is the “Island of the Moon.”

If you click and expand this map, you can see it much more clearly, and you can also see the red line that separates the Peru side from the Bolivia side.

More authentic artifacts from the ancient inhabitants.

And still more. They are not even behind glass. The guide lets me touch a few things.

A much better scale model of one of the Uros floating islands. That dirt beneath is so filled with roots that it is very light and floats.

Bobby-bear and Brenda-doll, enjoying the plaza.

They are having a lot of fun as tourists. I am sure there are not many bears and dolls that have been to so many exciting places.

Soon, our tour group gathers in a small community restaurant – one where different families take turns cooking and earning the profits. After a group meeting, we eat lunch together. (The lunch is not included in the tour).

We are given two menu choices – either trout or an omelette, with rice, fries, beets, and tea. I order the trout. It is yummy. This is the remainder of my plate, with just the fish skin left behind. I am still a little hungry after eating. The meal portions were not especially huge.

Some of my group at the outdoor patio lunch table.

The restaurant sign “Communal Restaurant Saint Santiago”. I am guessing this little community is called “San Santiago” … but I do not know for sure.

As I stare at this sign, it seems confusing to see the “San” twice. The word “Santiago” is already an abbreviation meaning Saint James. So this name is really “Saint Saint James” … interesting.

Me, feeling satisfied after lunch, taking a short rest.

And Bobby and Brenda wanted a photo too.

My friends Joet and Lie. They are such a cute couple. I just find out today, that even though they are from China, they have been living in France for seven years.

More of my new friends. They are part of a large group of Spanish people – all extended family traveling together. I have had fun starting to make friends with several of them. This girl in the blue is named Lucy.

Looking through the arch that makes up the entrance to our restaurant. That is part of my group still inside.

Looking out over Lake Titicaca.

Me, with Lucy

As we resume hiking, I take a photo of this interesting house. They are playing very loud music. I am also curious by all the white paint on walls and fences. The last half hour of the trail was covered in such splotches of white paint.

This little community has a really nice looking sports court.

On our way, climbing to the very top …

A typical site on the island … lots of clay heads with hats.

Looking back at some of the group climbing behind me.

The homes in this area seem much bigger and newer than some …

Passing into yet another community.

I am now over the top, looking down at the steep descent ahead. Those are boats below, and I am guessing this is our destination on the west side of the island. Our boat should be down there to meet us.

A little bird along the way.

Getting closer to the destination.

Giovani told us that there are 540 of these steps.

A steeper place as I near the bottom.

I am one of the first from my group. This photo is taken from the boat dock, looking back up toward the lower part of the steep trail.

The sign reads “Welcome to Taquile Island”

Same photo, without the zoom.

That boat right in the middle is our tour boat. I hang around for a while, enjoying the view and meditating. The rest of the group trickles in over the next twenty minutes.

Others climbing down the steep stairs. These are not part of my group.

A couple of local people waiting for their boat.

I walk down the shoreline a little, briefly exploring.

I am sitting on a rock.

It is almost time to board.

And we are on our way. I sit on top of the boat for the majority of the three hour journey back to Puno

Yes, I said “THREE HOUR” journey. It is a long way on these slow boats.

Looking back, with Joet and Lie barely in the photo.

A view of the west side of Taquile island, with the boat dock at the bottom.

In the foreground is the tip of Taquile Island. In the background is Amantani Island (where I was yesterday).

Me, on top of the boat. Either Joet or Lie took this photo for me. As you can see, I am bundled up in many layers. It is very cold out here with the breeze blowing on us.

Looking back at Taquile Island.

Zooming in on Taquile Island.

Another similar photo.

This one is without the zoom, showing the entire length of Taquile Island.

Approaching the peninsula that sticks out to form the southern edge of the Puno Bay.

Same photo, more or less…

Passing by the southern side of Puno Bay.

Some of the typical scenery in this part of the lake.

This sign reads “National Reserve of Lake Titicaca” and then says things I don’t understand.

I catch a glimpse of a reed house that looks really out of place here … plus I love the women wearing their traditional clothing.

A group carrying a cement mixer.

Reeds along the shore.

More typical scenery.

Finally turning toward Puno … off in the FAR distance.

Getting closer.

About to enter the man-made channel through the thick reeds.

And here we go …

Shortly after 3:00 p.m., we arrive back at the dock in Puno. Rather than taking me back to my hotel, I ask our shuttle driver to please drop me off at the bus station. A while later, I walk back to my hotel with a purchased bus ticket in hand. I will be leaving early tomorrow morning on a bus to Cusco.

I spend the rest of the day resting and exploring the plaza area of Puno.

From Puno To Cusco

On Sunday morning, June 15, 2014, I arrive early at the bus terminal, and my bus is a little late. After a long wait, I finally make my way to my seat. I am on the upper level in the very front, with a large window in front and to my right. I will have gorgeous views all the way back to Cusco.

It is shortly after 8:00 a.m. when I take this photo while the bus backs away from the terminal.

And I can put my feet up on a ledge in front of me. It is still a tiny bit cold so I wrap my feet in my coat. Later, I have the opposite problem. There is NO ventilation in the front of the top level, and the hot sun heats it up fast …

Driving down the streets of Puno on this beautiful Sunday morning. It was about a week ago, on a late Sunday morning, that I first began this journey.

Sorry for the glare … the morning sun is bright.

Driving along the lake.

Suddenly, the road ahead is completely blocked. The bus driver has to back up for a block, back into a side street to turn around, and then we squeeze through a different part of town in search of a way to leave.

Finally, we are on the highway, leaving Puno. The sign reads “Thank you for visiting Puno.”

As we drive to the north, we are in the “altiplano” or “high plains”. To the right is the “nature reserve” section of Lake Titicaca, at the north end, just around the mountain from Puno.

A closer view of the nature reserve. Some of the Uros floating islands are down in there, but I cannot see any in this photo.

Another view in the same general area.

I take a lot of photos on this journey. You can skip them if you like, but I love nature and travel, and like to remember how different areas look.

In this photo we continue driving north on the altiplano.

I quickly grab my camera when I see this herd of sheep along the highway as we drive trough a small town.

More of the highway in this region. It is very flat here. I can only presume that the lake level used to be much higher, and that this is all old lake bed.

We pass through several of these toll booths. The bus never pays … at least it doesn’t look like we do. We go through slowly and then resume our journey. Maybe the bus prepays with passes …

A closer view of the sign.

We are arriving at the city of “Juliaca”. The tour book talks about this beautiful “pink” city near the north end of Lake Titicaca.

The only thing I see from the highway is lots of dust and dirty roads under construction. I am sure there are some very beautiful parts to this city.

Looking down one of the streets of Juliaca near the highway.

And another. There is a lot of dust in the air everywhere I look. It must be a breezy day, and the streets are all unpaved.

I am sure there is a beautiful part of town near an old historical center.

Driving by a bus stop in Juliaca.

Two police officers standing by the road.

This part of town is a little nicer.

As is this one.

But soon, we are right back to the wide, dirty, dusty streets.

Street vendors and local life…

And then we are right back in a nicer area again …

People hanging out in a small plaza.

Lots of construction going on in this town … and the locals just work around it.

It looks like that couple sees my camera and is posing for me.

I am surprised to see this next sight. I soon realize that one reason for all the construction is that they are building a major new highway in the area.

A new bus stop under construction … next to the new highway.

And finally, we have made it through the town and are back on the open road. I took this photo to show the unique way that people in this area drive. You will notice a motorcycle in the right shoulder, and on the other side, in the left shoulder is a mototaxi coming toward us.

The faster traffic gets quite annoyed if these slower vehicles are in the middle of the road. Often it feels quite hectic when people are also passing each other while the slower vehicles are in the shoulders….

We are starting to enter an area with different looking hills.

There are some modern gas stations (grifos) in the area.

A train zooms by us on the right.

We are gradually rising in altitude, and the terrain continues to change.

Some adobe homes on this mountainside.

More changing scenery.

Headed toward taller mountains.

Gradually climbing toward a mountain pass.

Same view, but with less zoom.

Continuing to climb, higher and higher.

This is a speed bump. They are used all over Peru to slow traffic down in certain places (allowing pedestrians to cross, etc…)

A very old-looking church in a small town.

Entering a town called Pukara with an altitude of 3860 meters (or 12,664 feet). We are not as high up as I thought. Lake Titicaca is 12,507 feet. We have only climbed 156 feet.

Driving through Pukara.

Local vendors.

Surrounding mountains are getting taller.

And finally, snow-capped peaks ahead.

It is getting hot here in front. Now I have stripped off my coat, sweatshirt, and even sweater … enjoying the ride.

Loving that beautiful mountain ahead.

Gorgeous natural beauty.

Mother and sons by the road, holding a motorcycle.

Another local woman standing by the road.

Now, the mountains ahead are getting more spectacular.

Passing through another small town.

It is named “Kunurana Alto”

A cute little town …

Every bridge on this road has its own sign, listing its name, its length, and its maximum load capacity.

This bridge (puente) is called Llapamayo …

This old cemetery looks fascinating.

Now, we really are climbing.

Love this photo…

I know there is a tall mountain pass ahead … but am not sure how far away it might be.

But we are going up.

A herd of animals all lined up in the distance. I cannot quite make out what they are … possibly alpaca.

Part of the sport on these highways is watching the bus pass other vehicles.

Almost there … we can do it.

I love the texture of these mountains …

That is actually a glacier up there … it is snow and ice … very dirty ice.

Finally, we are approaching the mountain pass.

The name of the mountain pass is “Abra la Raya”. This sign says the altitude of the pass is 4338 meters above sea level … which equates to 14,232 feet. I have driven a van up to the top of Pikes Peak in Colorado, and it is over 14,000 feet in altitude. Perhaps this is the highest I have ever been on land … I’m not quite sure.

Another sign from the artisans here, wishing us a happy journey.

I did not realize that our bus was going to stop here. The whole area is filled with artisan vendors.

This sign says the elevation is three meters less … about ten feet lower.

That is my “Tour Peru” bus. My seat is in the very front, upstairs, on the right side when inside looking out (left from this angle).

Lots of beautiful things for sale.

And lots of beautiful scenery to look at.

Looking back where we came from. I love the woman on the right, with her alpacas.

Given that we are already at 14,232 feet, those mountains are at least 16,000 feet or higher.

We stop here for about 15 minutes. The driver does not tolerate waiting. When it is time to go, he closes the doors and starts. Then stops to wait 30 seconds for a few stragglers … and then goes again.

The sign reads “National University of the Puno Altiplano” “Center of investigation and production” … La Raya … Veterinary Medicine Facility …

We are back on the road, now descending toward Cusco (still several hours away).

Approaching a small town.

And more populated areas …

A man carrying a huge load of something. He is pulling his three wheeled bicycle. There is no way he could sit in the back seat. He could never see.

More typical scenery. The landscape is constantly changing.

It is hard to see in this photo. Down beyond the sheep and horses, there are a couple of people with shovels, in the middle of a pile of grains. They are actually trashing grains of some type. They throw the grain into the air and the breeze then blows the chaff off to the sides.

I have seen women in Pisac doing this on a smaller scale … simply sitting by the side of the road with a small tarp full of wheat, throwing it into the air over and over.

A modern building in this small town … not sure exactly what it is … perhaps a school or sporting complex.

A man carrying a huge load of grass or corn stalks … hard to tell from here.

Soon, we drive through a very congested area.

There is some type of huge carnival or festival going on …

Crowds of people everywhere…

Whatever it is, it looks like they are having fun.

More typical scenery for this area.

Just down the road, this large truck is filled with travelers, both on top, and down inside.

And another one …

… down the road …

I love that mountain.

The bus windows are getting very dirty (bugs all over) … but the scenery is getting very beautiful.

Passing through another town. I think we are less than an hour away from Cusco.

I am fascinated by this cemetery on the hill. It looks like a little city. If you click on the photo, you can see that each of the little alcoves is a space for a casket to go inside. Some of those little building have room for at least twenty caskets each …

A closer view of the same cemetery.

Continuing on toward Cusco.

We are getting very close to Cusco now. These are a few small ruins as we approach the town from the southeast side.

More tiny ruins as seen from a distance.

And entering the outer edges of Cusco (at least the suburbs of Cusco).

At this point I put my camera away.

In less than a half hour, we arrive at the bus terminal. As I exit in search of transportation, a taxi driver approaches me and asks if I want a ride. I tell him I want to go to the San Pedro Market. Before I let him take me, I know I need to first negotiate a price. He tells me 50 soles and I just laugh and start to walk away. He comes back and offers 15 soles and I laugh, wave him off, and keep walking. When he comes down to 10 soles I tell him I would pay three soles. He laughs at me and walks away. I am later told by locals here that three soles (about $1.20) is a very fair price. But the driver knows he can find someone else to overcharge …

I walk outside, hoping to find a free taxi, but we are getting close to Inti Raymi, and there are fiestas going on nearby, and there are no taxi’s available.

I walk and walk, dragging my suitcase behind me. After an hour I arrive at the San Pedro Market, only to find it closed. It is Sunday after 4:00 p.m.. I also notice that the streets are extremely congested. As I walk toward the Plaza De Armas, the are so many people crowding the street that I can barely get by them, and often have to slow down and wait. It takes about twenty minutes for a distance that normally takes me five minutes.

I am shocked as I approach the plaza. It is packed with people. We are only a week away from the height of the Inti Raymi festival, and today seems to be a big part of it.

After grabbing a quick late afternoon lunch, I do find an available cab that takes me to the collectivo stop. He warns me that on a Sunday evening, I may have trouble finding transportation. Luck is in my favor, and a minivan headed for Pisac is waiting for me. The woman who is driving is anxious to get home, so she does not wait for the minivan to fill up. Soon, we re on our way.

At shortly after 5:30 p.m., I arrive at my room in Pisac, tired, but happy to be home.

I can only laugh with surprise when I discover water leaking out of my daypack. My water bottle lid has popped open, and has gotten my computer all wet. The monitor will not even work at all for the next hour or two. I just turn it off and let it dry. Late that night I try again. It eventually starts to work, but has lots of weird lights all over. Gradually, over the next week the lights mostly fade. Now, I only have a small section of my screen that is weird … but very usable.

I feel quite lucky that I continue to have a working computer at all.

These last two weeks have brought amazing adventure, with visits to Machu Picchu, and then extended visits to Lake Titicaca, on both the Bolivia and Peru sides. And in every place I have visited, the experiences have been life changing.

I am so grateful for the opportunities.

Copyright © 2014 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved

This post contains 248 photos, including detailed narratives. It covers parts of three days, June 12-14, 2014.

In the early afternoon on Thursday, June 12, 2014, I catch a bus from Copacabana, Bolivia, back to the Peruvian border crossing, and then on toward Puno, Peru. The first 36 photos highlight that trip, and the next 10 photos cover a little bit of Puno.

Early on Friday, June 13, I embark on a two-day (overnight) tour of some of the northern islands of Lake Titicaca (on the Peruvian side). The next 93 photos cover my journey to, and at, one of the floating islands of the Uros people. Then, the next 92 photos cover the first part of my overnight stay at the home of an indigenous woman on Amantani Island. The final 19 photos of this blog cover the morning of day two (June 14), as I say goodbye to that beautiful Amantani island. The remainder of that trip will be documented in the next blog.

As usual, the photos in this post are thumbnail images. Please click on any photo to enlarge it. The thumbnails leave much to be desired as far as colors and resolution – plus the thumbnails clip all of the edges. I use thumbnails for the post itself, because it gives people an opportunity to get a summary glimpse without downloading huge amounts of data for the high-res photos.

CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE TO HIGH RESOLUTION

Copacabana, Bolivia To Puno, Peru

I arrive early, at 1:00 p.m., to board my bus in Copacabana. It is an older double-level bus. While it is not new, it is very nice and quite inexpensive. I sit on the upper level with great views of the lake to my right.

Our first stop is the border between Bolivia and Peru. I sail right through my exit from the Bolivia side. When I arrive at the Peru immigration office, I first stop, briefly meditate and breathe, and then step through the door. I have been pondering this moment since mid April. I would love to remain in Peru for a longer time, but that possibility remains in the hands of the Universe … and whatever border guard helps me.

I hand my passport to the uniformed officer and, as he scans it on the computer and begins to look at past stamps inside, I tell him that I am a writer, and that I am here writing about my experiences in Peru.

“I really need another six months to give me time to complete my writing,” I tell the border official, with a huge smile on my face.

“You have already been her for a long time,” he responds, looking up at me and then back at my passport.

He speaks again after a short pause.

“How about 150 days?” He asks me with a smile.

“That would be perfect,” I respond with a glowing grin.

Soon, I walk away from the immigration office with permission to stay at least five more months in Peru. So many possibilities have just opened.

After crossing the border and going around the southern tip of this part of Lake Titicaca, I look out the window to the right. With a full zoom on my camera lens, I am able to capture this final glimpse of the “Island of the Sun” off in the distance.

A funny old building along the road.

I am deeply curious about those funny things far out in the water. It looks like little fenced-off sections. I wonder if perhaps the people are growing fish or other edible water foods …

All you can see above the water are a few feet of what appears to be netting or perhaps chain-link fencing. I can only imagine what is below. I never do ask anyone, and still do not know to this day.

A better photo (the best I could get) of these mysterious cages.

Just some of the scenery along the way.

Lots of adobe construction.

And the occasional building like this one, made of clay blocks.

More typical housing, with the lake in the background.

As this photo illustrates, most homes are very basic, without much fancy architecture.

More of those fenced off areas in the lake (very blurry because of the moving bus).

A hillside with the lake in the background.

Another similar photo, with a different hill.

Driving through a small community.

… with sheep grazing freely.

Construction everywhere …

Spread out farmland with little houses dotting the landscape.

Bobby and Brenda enjoying the scenery, looking out the bus window.

There are lots of farms on this side of the road … but not a lot of visible green.

Just as it was in Peru, most political signs are painted on the sides of buildings. This particular emblem is common – some type of political party that uses a rubber sandal as their logo.

At times the shoreline is filled with reeds and marshy areas.

And yes, there are some trees. There seem to be a lot of Eucalyptus trees in the area.

A little farm with trees and lake in the distance.

More of those funny water cages in the lake.

I just did a quick search on the internet, and I found one site that talks about cage farming in Lake Titicaca. So I am guessing these are fish cages, where they raise fish, like a fish farm out in the water.

A couple of farmers in a lakeside field.

There are actually fresh vegetables growing here (not sure what they are).

More lakeside fields, with a few sheep wandering around.

Just below the road, with the lake on the other side.

Growing lots of stuff here…

… and there is plenty of water available. It is hard to remember that the lake itself is at 12,507 feet above sea level … and nighttime temperatures in June and July can drop well below freezing.

Another common site. That funny teepee like thing in the middle of the field is a bunch of reeds gathered together, standing vertically. These reeds have edible parts, and are used for many things.

More of the reeds in a teepee-like pile.

And another one …

Puno, Peru

Soon, we drive through the streets of Puno and stop at the “terminal terrestre” (the ground transportation terminal). On board the bus with us is a travel agent, selling tours and promoting a small hospedaje. He pays for my taxi cab to check out the hospedaje … and I decide to stay there. It is really nice with economical rates … called the “America Inn”.

This is a side view of the “America Inn” in the center distance. It doesn’t look like much on the outside, but is very nice on the inside.

The walk from the hotel to the Plaza De Armas is only about four blocks. This is part of the street that I follow.

The sign on the municipal building in the town square.

The church in the Plaza De Armas.

Inside the church…

With full zoom, taken from the Plaza De Armas. I want to see what that funny thing is up on the hill. With the zoom, it looks like a Condor.

That night, I look out my hotel window, and see the gorgeous full moon.

There is a little sports field below my window. The moon is just rising above the small stadium seating area.

The Uros Floating Islands

I am embarrassed to admit it. For as long as I can remember, I have heard accounts about the floating islands in Lake Titicaca … and for whatever reason, I have always had the impression that the “Island of the Sun” and the “Island of the Moon” were two of those floating islands.

I was actually quite surprised to learn that the Island of the Sun (and the Moon) were instead, actual islands with hills and rocks … and they are definitely NOT floating.

Earlier on Thursday afternoon, before the travel agent left the hotel, I decided to purchase a two-day (overnight) to tour that, on the first day, would take me to a floating island.

In the process, I learn that there is an indigenous group called “The Uros” which has lived on these islands for a very long time. For the most part, many of these Uros are maintaining the traditions of their ancestors.

A few of the islands welcome tourism to supplement their income.

At 8:13 a.m. on Friday morning, June 13, 2014, a van full of tourists finally stops in front of my hotel to pick me up. The extra large van is nearly full, and soon it does fill up as we retrieve the last few people at their respective hotels. Soon, we arrive at the marina and board our tour boat for the next two days.

This is a photo I take while patiently waiting for the van to arrive, wondering if I might have been forgotten.

And another photo of the sign on my hotel … also taken while waiting.

Still while waiting, a garbage truck stops in front and collects the hotel’s garbage. I am absolutely shocked when the person running the back of the truck finds two large plastic bottles mixed in with the trash. Appearing to be disgusted, he picks the bottles out of the trash and throws them back out onto the street, where they start to roll away into the gutter.

I can only imagine why. Maybe there is a recycling law here, where plastic bottles are not supposed to be placed in the normal refuse bins. But I do find it surprising that he would just toss the bottles back out of the garbage and onto the street.

Me on the tour boat. There are around twenty of us. It is quite comfy. The windows are clean and the inner cabin is warm. Occasionally, I go out on top.

Looking from my seat up toward the front of the boat. The captain sits up there on the left.

This will be my home for much of the next two days.

In addition to our captain, we also have a full-time guide. He speaks both Spanish and English – but his English is sometimes hard to understand. His name is Giovani. (Our captain/driver’s name is Armando).

A photo of Puno in the distance. We are already quite far from shore.

Reeds are everywhere along the shores …

Puno is situated in a large bay, and the only way out is via a man-made channel cut through the reeds.

It is not visible in this thumbnail image, but on the full-size photo, you can see a red tower on the left, marking the entrance to this man-made channel.

It is hard to see in this photo, but behind that wall of reeds (far edge of lake) is a reserve area, and if you look closely you can see some structures sticking up above the reeds. Those structures are on some of the floating islands that are closer to Puno.

We are headed to a floating island that is more than an hour and a half away by boat.

Leaving Puno in our wake. you can barely see the glitters of light reflecting off many of the buildings on the distant shoreline.

For much of the first hour and a half, we run parallel to that wall of reeds in the distance. It separates the main Puno bay area from the nature reserve. All of this area is still a huge bay.

The boat I am on belongs to “Inka Travel” … at least that is the tour company running my tour.

At about an hour into our journey, Armando suddenly turns the engine off and goes to the back of the boat. We are drifting aimlessly for about ten minutes while he works on the motor. He disconnects a hose and Giovani brings him water to pour into the hose.

Finally, he puts it back together, puts the lid back over the motor, and we resume our journey.

He tells us that we are fine and that it happens all the time …

Another image of Armando and Giovani working on the motor.

Finally, after nearly two hours of travel, we approach our first destination at just before 10:30 a.m. – this is one of the islands created and occupied by the Uros people

Apparently, about five or six families live on each of these small islands. There are two of them in this immediate area. One appears to be off limits to tourists, and the other appears to be designed to welcome visitors.

This is the one we visit. If you look closely, you can see people appearing to stand on a white structure behind the island. Those are tourists, standing on the deck of their boat.

Those large reed boats are somewhat similar to the one I saw being constructed on the Island of the Sun. But in this case, each is a small, separate boat. The boat I saw on the Island of the Sun was much bigger, using several of these smaller boats as supports or pontoons.

All twenty of our tour will soon be taking a ride on one of these (for an extra cost of 10 soles – or about $3.80 US).

We are now tied up to the shore of this floating island. I am fascinated that people actually live out here.

This entire island is made of nothing but floating reeds.

My tour boat is the furthest one. We tie up to the first one and walk across the back. These are members of my group.

We are soon invited to climb onto one of these reed boats. I am the first one on the boat, and sit in the very back. I do not realize that all twenty of us will be herded onto a single boat. Before long, it is quite crowded and hard to find a place for my feet.

In this photo, I am now sitting in the back of the boat as other members of my group begin to crowd in front of me.

Looking at the top of one side of the boat. This “pontoon” is made from hundreds of reeds, tied together with rope. I have my doubts, but our tour guide reassures us that the boat can safely handle all of at the same time. I am surprised when our weight does not even make us sink lower into the water.

I hand my camera to someone that then takes a photo for me.

Looking forward as we prepare to push off the floating island.

These two women, the man, and little girl sing and clap for us, wishing us a fun voyage.

They perform for a few minutes as we start to drift away.

That little girl is so cute!

But right now, she is looking quite serious.

Looking back at the other reed boat that we leave behind.

Our entertainers begin to walk away.

Giovani remains standing on the other boat. Each of those structures behind him is the small home of one of the families that live here. You might notice the solar panels. They do have access to a tiny bit of solar powered electricity here. I understand the the Peru government donated theses panels to the Uros people.

We are now quite crowded as our driver pushes us around the area with a long pole.

Continuing our voyage.

Looking back at the island.

An up-close view of what I can only assume is some type of fish farm.

Slowly moving away.

The water here is fairly shallow. These islands are floating, but they do anchor them down in shallow waters, using poles and ropes to do so. Otherwise they would drift in the wind, ending up in very deep waters.

Another view of the reed pontoon on my side of the boat.

We are now a couple hundred feet away from the island.

Continuing our crowded and cramped journey.

Looking back through the reeds.

And the same photo, but without the zoom.

A closer view of the reeds that these people literally use to maintain life.

If you look closely, you can actually see two floating islands in the distance. The one on the left is the one we are visiting. The one of the right center is another small one, quite close to the first.

With the zoom, looking back at the island on the left.

Another boat taking someone for a ride.

On our way back.

Bobby and Brenda also enjoyed the boat ride.

Our tour boat is now tied up directly on the shoreline (the other one has left).

A different boat filled with tourists.

We are now approaching the island, engaged in a holding pattern until someone can help us…

We want to park in there, but that little boat is blocking our way.

Finally, we are docked. I was sitting there in the very back, but climbed out while the other passengers delayed to take more photos.

Part of a beautiful “mobile” that is currently on the ground. The workmanship and colors are quite beautiful.

Our tour guide soon gathers us in a circle for a discussion. One of the men from the village joins us, but our tour guide does all the talking. I would rather have heard the discussion from the Uros man himself.

The man from the island has prepared several of the roots for us. The white part (after being peeled) is edible. I eat about six inches of one.

A tapestry that contains much of the Uros story.

Some of our group, sitting around on the island as the discussion continues. I do not know it yet, but that young Chinese couple in the middle will be spending the night at the same house where I am assigned to sleep. Their names are Lie, and Joet.

My feet on the soft ground. It is like walking on firm sponge.

More of the tapestry as our guide explains the story of the symbolism.

A damaged map of Lake Titicaca that is sitting nearby. If you expand the photo, you can see the details. I spent three days down near the southern end at Copacabana and Island of the Sun. In this moment, I am between Puna and Amantani Island, near that long peninsula that sticks out between them.

That same “mobile” from earlier. Our tour guide is holding it up in the air to show the workmanship and to share the symbolism. Those are little “reed boats” (with people in them) hanging at the bottom.

One of the pieces of white root that I am about to eat.

This is a small chunk of floating root material that shows the type of very lightweight soil that keeps this island afloat.

The little girl soon joins us. She is quite mischievous …

… and soon sits in front of a bowl filled with water and live fish. She proceeds to start grabbing and playing with the fish.

These are some of the fish that the local people eat.

Now, the Uros man is showing us how the island is constructed. It begins with a thick layer of that lightweight root material, with wooden stakes tied with rope around the outside to hold all the floating material together.

The little girl has now taken a fish out of the bowl and is mesmerized by it.

Next, the top of the floating material is overlaid with crisscrossing layers of reeds themselves. Apparently, they frequently add additional layers on top as the bottom of the island erodes away.

Then, they add even smaller reeds on top of that …

And eventually, they build their structures on top of those upper layers.

For cooking, they place rocks over the reeds, and then build their fires in stoves that are on top the rocks.

This is a rifle made from wood and an old pipe. One man from the island held up a dead duck that he had shot with the rifle. They also eat the ducks.

Several women come out and allow us to look inside their little homes. This one is built from reeds, and is lined with thin layers of plywood on the inside.

And the roof is made from reeds. Notice the light bulb in the back. That is powered with the solar panels.

Looking through the entrance to this same room.

A closer look at the outside of one of the huts.

It appears to be built on top of a thick layer of reeds.

Soon, we are given some free time to explore the many items for sale … all hand made by the people here on this island. Each home has a display of things that the person living there has made.

Looking at the items this woman has for sale.

Feeling curious about that odd rifle, I go back to look at it. It is just old wood and pipe, tied together with string, and with some type of rudimentary firing mechanism. Very interesting.

Looking across the center of the island, and the area where we were seated.

More items for sale.

And more of those beautiful tapestries that tell the story of the Uros people.

Joet, standing on one of the boats.

Bobby and Brenda, enjoying the island views and sun.

A look at the finished village model, again showing how the little islands are put together.

The solar panel on one home. Only one or two homes have their own personal panel. There is also a community one.

Another glance inside one of the huts.

A closer look inside the same one.

And now, time to get back on our boat, ready to cruise out toward Amantani Island.

One last glimpse of another reed boat, taking more tourists out for a ride.

Amantani Island, Day One

Our next destination is Amantani island. We will be spending the night there. There are no hotels or restaurants on the island. Instead, the tour company makes agreements with people who live on the island, paying them to house and feed people. As I later come to understand, Various villages on the island take turns, hosting visitors about one night per week.

Bobby and Brenda, sticking their heads out of my daypack as we resume our journey to Amantani Island.

That is Amantani in the distance (taken with a zoom).

Looking back toward the long peninsula that encloses the Puno bay. The Uros floating island is just on the other side of that peninsula.

A glance (with zoom) at Taquile island. We will visit that island tomorrow.

We arrive at Amantani island at around 1:15 in the early afternoon. The above group of local people are already by the dock, waiting for us.

Three women from the island, wearing their traditional clothing, staying busy while they wait for us.

Once we are all gathered in this small plaza, our guide, Giovani, talks to a local man with a list, and soon, we are being assigned to our host/hostess for the rest of today and tomorrow morning.

I am one of the first ones assigned. The young couple from China (Lie and Joet) and myself, will be occupying rooms in a house owned by a woman named Filomina. This is a photo taken as she leads us back to her house. It is about a fifteen minute walk, mostly up a hill.

This is Filomina as she leads the way.

This is not her house. It is just one of the many homes that we pass along the way. This one looks especially nice. Some members of our group do end up staying here. I can see them from our house.

This is one of the beds in my room. I have a large, but basic room with two double beds inside. The bed on the left is quite sagging. The bed by where I am standing is much more firm. Neither is perfect for me, but I choose the more firm one.

This is the one I choose, with my coat laying there as well.

Filomina’s house is in a beautiful location. She lives upstairs. Downstairs is a bathroom (with no running water, but there is a bucket that can be used to flush) … and a separate building around a courtyard. That separate building has two bedrooms. I am in one, and the couple from China (Lie and Joet) are in the other.

This photo is taken at the gate that leads out of the courtyard, out to Filomina’s garden, and the lake below.

Her garden has a beautiful crop of tall, green wheat, looking very healthy.

A view from the gate. I love the roses and the view.

I asked Filomina what these plants are … they are growing beyond the wheat field. She gave me a Spanish name that I did not understand. I later figure out that they are Lima Beans.

Looking from the beans back across the wheat and up to Filomina’s house. You can see the upstairs rooms from here. My room was in the building to the right (barely visible).

This was taken from my room, looking out at the courtyard. The gate that I looked through earlier is the one on the left.

Looking across the wheat field, toward the lake below, with some beautiful adobe buildings and trees.

Looking over Filomina’s wheat and Lima beans at the lake below.

Some of Filomina’s many beautiful flowers.

Filomina has a very tiny kitchen with a dirt floor. It is in a small adobe attachment that is actually outside the gate, by the garden area. In this photo, she has her back to me as she cooks our lunch on a fire.

This tiny adobe hut on the front right is the kitchen. The part that sticks out in front is the indoor fireplace where she cooks. The building behind this kitchen is the one in which my bedroom can be found…

As I sit outside by the garden, I see this old piece of tire that has been cut with handles. It appears to be used as some type of bowl. I later see Filomina carry it down behind the garden. She stands in this as she sponge bathes herself from a bucket of water. I can only assume that this helps her to keep her feet clean while taking a bath … and catches water that she can reuse …

Standing by my bedroom door, looking out toward the lake.

Another photo using the wheat as foreground.

This is our lunch. It is a delicious soup, with one of the main ingredients being “quinua”. I love it.

Finally, I get a photo of Filomina with her face. I ask permission before taking the photo. In this image, she is sitting in her kitchen, having just finished serving us the soup that was cooked over the fire.

Soon, she serves us our second course of the meal. The part that looks like an omelet is actually fried cheese. The tomatoes are obvious. Underneath the cheese are two different types of local potatoes, both boiled.

Another image of the plate, with different lighting.

This is one of the weirdest potatoes I have ever seen. That is Lie on the left. Filomina insists on eating her food down on the ground, by the fire. She will not join us at the table.

Joet and Lie, enjoying their meal.

And they take a photo of me with my camera.

And another, with flash.

A view looking up the hill from Filomina’s house.

A zoomed photo of part of my group, staying at that house I pointed out earlier

A closer view of the Lima beans.

A closer view of the bean pods themselves.

Filomina working in her field. She only wears her traditional clothing when escorting us to and from our tour events. I notice that every time we return to her house, she quickly changes back to normal clothing.

Another gorgeous view from Filomina’s property. At one point when it feels appropriate, I ask Filomina about her life. She tells me that she has lived in this houses since she was born. She currently lives here with her teenage son – her only child. She was married, but her husband left for another woman, so now she takes care of herself and son. One way she earns money is to host tourists like she is doing for me.

Later in the afternoon, Filomina escorts us up the hill to meet up with our group. We are going to go on an evening hike to watch the sunset.

Lie has a difficult time hiking at this altitude, so Joet and Lie turn around and opt to explore the lower island instead. I continue on with Filomina as my guide.

This is the place where I end up meeting with my group, at shortly after 4:00 p.m. – it is actually a community meeting hall, with a small outdoor soccer / basketball court.

This is a sign by the meeting area. We talk for nearly a half hour before beginning the hike. On the third board down, on the right side, the sign points to “Pachatata and Pachamama”. Pacha is the Quechua word for “Earth” … and tata means father and mama means mother … thus the common phrase “Pacha Mama” which means mother earth in the Quechua language.

In this case, however, the sign is referring to two temples on the tops of two nearby hills. We are hiking to “Pachatata” which is the masculine temple on top of this island. From there, we will watch the sunset.

Part of the way up the hill. It is a steep and difficult climb (for me anyway). The path itself is quite nice.

More of the trail … up … up … and up.

This man was sitting by the trail with his horse. When nobody took him up on his offer for a ride (costing money), he rode up by himself.

Nearing the top. The trail just keeps climbing.

From the “pacha tata” mountain, looking back toward the “pacha mama” mountain.

Approaching a large rock arch. Apparently, each arch represents a boundary change between communities – but I am not sure if that is what this one means. I actually pass through several such arches on my way to the top. If you expand the photo, you can see a couple more of them in the distance through this one.

Continuing to climb, higher and higher. In this photo, I briefly turn around to capture a glimpse of an indigenous woman selling her wares, with the lake in the background.

Approaching another arch.

Looking out toward Taquile Island (I think).

Finally, I am reaching the top at around 4:40 p.m.. I am the first from my group to get here, and less than a handful of us actually end up going all the way to the top.

I explore for a while. This is the gate into the Pacha Tata temple itself. It is only open one day per year, during a sacred festival. I think Giovani told me that is one day in either January or February. This is a very sacred place for the local people.

Looking through the gate, down into the temple property.

As I sit here enjoying the “pre” sunset, Giovani finally arrives and makes it clear that we are to simply enjoy our free time here, and that when we are ready, we should go back down the mountain and then meet again at the same place where we began the hike. It is there that I will find Filomina who will guide me back to her house.

I sit here and meditate, just “breathing” in the beautiful surroundings.

Finally, the sunset begins. This photo is taken at 4:52 p.m.

Bobby and Brenda, also enjoying the sunset.

Now looking right into the sun. I wish I could do this without hurting my human eyes.

An attempt at a self-photo.

Some of the many people who are up here to enjoy the setting sun. I sit on a flat spot of this wall.

More people on the other side of me. The crowd gets bigger over the next fifteen minutes.

This is taken right at 5:00 p.m..

The next sequence of photos are all taken during the subsequent fifteen minutes. The sun is gradually lowering and the lighting constantly shifting with the dance of the clouds.

I love how this one captures a bright beam of light on the lake below.

Finally, I decide to start hiking down the mountain while there is still enough light to see my way. I do have a flashlight if I need it. This photo is taken at 5:16 p.m..

I begin to experiment with various foregrounds as I walk down the trail.

Looking at the pink sky to the south.

And back toward the west at 5:20 p.m..

Soon, I make my way back down to the meeting area, but I am early and no one else is there. I decide to continue walking down toward Filomina’s house. I am really glad that I bump into her on the path, because I never would have found her home in the dark had I tried to do it by myself. There are no roads here … only paths. And the paths go every which way, through people’s fields, next to and between their houses, etc…

Everything looks the same, and it could be so easy to get lost.

After a yummy dinner, I step outside the kitchen of Filomina’s house to capture the Full Moon.

At around 7:40 p.m., Filomina stops at my room to dress me up for tonight’s dance party. Giovani told us that the local women would want to dress us up, and if we did not let them, that they would be disappointed.

So when Filomina arrives with clothing, I gladly allow her to have fun. She tells me to leave my heavy clothes on (because it is extremely cold outside) and then proceeds to pull a large heavy green skirt over my head. Then she helps me pull this beautiful blouse over my sweatshirt and wraps me up with this traditional waist band. It is so tight that I can hardly breathe. Finally, she gives me a black shawl to drape over my head.

I ask her to take a photo of me. I feel quite silly. I would not normally wear indigenous clothing because I would never want to offend anyone’s sacred traditions. But tonight is different.

Soon, we are inside a small community hall, waiting for others to show up. This is a young couple from my tour group, also very dressed up. Over the next half hour, the place fills up. It looks like several tour groups have joined us, including many of the local townspeople.

Some of the local men, sitting on the stage, waiting for the festivities to begin.

More of the local men. They must be village leaders of some type.

I ask someone to take another photo of me.

And another…

That is Filomina, all wrapped up in her black shawl.

When the music starts, Filomina quickly find me and takes my hand. She also gathers up two other women, and we form a small circle. She starts a complicated dance step, swaying back and forth. It is one that I can never get quite right. Before long, all the circles in the room join into a huge circle that snakes all over the room. It is very fun … and very exhausting. This first song goes on for a very long time. My clothing is now extra hot … and the altitude makes such exercise very difficult to maintain.

I have no photos of me dancing. This is another small group. Three times in the evening (three out of about five songs), Filomina grabs me and makes me dance around. I love it, but can hardly keep up.

Some of the local women.

And a couple of others.

The songs are long, and the breaks between them are equally as long. Finally, after my third dance, when many others have already left, I tell Filomina that I am extremely tired.

“Do you want to leave now?” She asks….. “Yes,” I respond.

Soon, we are back at her house and she helps me remove all the traditional clothing. When she disappears upstairs, I crawl into bed and sleep quite well – but am occasionally startled by the loud noises of a nearby donkey.

Amantani Island, Day Two

I wake up very early on Saturday, June 14, 2014. This is a sunrise photo that I take at 5:59 a.m.. It is already a beautiful day.

And another one, taken just over ten minutes later, as the sun breaks over the horizon.

I sneak into the kitchen when Filomina is not present. You can see the fire burning in the lower center and the orange glow above that. Above the lower flame is a charcoal black stove top with a few old kettles. It is extremely hard to see details on the top of the stove.

This is the top of the stove, taken with a flash. She is making pancakes for this quick early morning breakfast. They are some of the best pancakes I have ever eaten.

Some of those weird looking potatoes.

This is the donkey behind Filomina’s house – the one that woke me up a few times with his screeching noises LOL.

A look at the adobe wall along the steps to Filomina’s second level (upstairs).

Looking at the upper level of Filomina’s house. That is a solar panel sticking up in the middle. There is only electricity on this island one day per week. She has her own panel, allowing her to have electric lights and a radio, etc…

As we prepare to leave to hike down to the boat, I ask her if I can have a photo with her. She always looks so serious, but I occasionally catch a beautiful grin.

A second photo with Filomina.

And one with just her.

Filomina with Lie and Joet, as we wait near the boat dock. We are the first ones here. She is smiling in this photo. Wherever she goes, she works on her knitting. She even knits while she walks. I don’t know how she does it.

Working on her knitting.

And another similar photo. I just can’t capture her smile … she does have one.

And another.

The rocky beach near the boat dock.

I pick up a few Lake Titicaca rocks (small ones) here and take them with me.

A last look at the “pacha tata” mountain. It was up there at the top where I watched the sunset last night.

Another view in town.

Filomina and a friend seeing me off as our boat prepares to leave.

Yes, she is still knitting.

The End Of Part 1

It has been an amazing forty-eight hours. When I left Bolivia on Thursday afternoon, I had no idea what I would do next. Now, here I am at the conclusion of an amazing adventurous day, sleeping in the home of an indigenous woman, eating her food, hiking to sunsets, and dancing with the local people.

And my two day adventure is only half complete. I am now leaving Amantani and will soon be on Taquile island. I will put those photos in a separate blog.

Copyright © 2014 by Brenda Larsen, All Rights Reserved